There was nothing unexpected or surprising at Valentino. Yet you can ask yourself the question if a label that produces such beautiful garments, really needs change.
In the familiar color palette of nudes, blacks and – of course – Valentino reds models worked a large series of new dresses. Slip dresses with a touch of leather, cocktail dresses done in lace, floral printed Sunday brunch dresses and puffy sleeved sheer evening dresses. Designers Chiuri and Piccioli were inspired by their city, Rome, and the work of photographer Arturo Ghergo in particular. Nothing too literal though; they mainly focused on his way of capturing a woman’s beauty.
And beautiful the Valentino woman will be… She will rock the lace items with dandelion motif. She will launch in one of the many romantic, floor length pieces. And she will head to work in her favorite jumpsuit. The embroidered lace, snake skin appliqués and beaded embroideries will make people stare. And she may not be sporty, seductive or tough; she will be gorgeous nevertheless.
He did a very non sustainable thing a few seasons ago by shipping that ginormous iceberg to Paris, yet Lagerfeld is fully focused on sustainability now. At least, so it seemed at Chanel’s SS2013 show at the Grand Palais. Fake windmills and a catwalk painted with the image of solar panels formed the backdrop for the collection presentation.
Chanel’s image for spring started off with classic looks; skirt suits and strapless dresses decorated with pearls. Pearls that kept popping up throughout the entire show. A show filled with renewed loose fitting Chanel suits.
Tweed fabrics, the usual suspects at Chanel, were done in bright, almost fluorescent shades, which added a young touch to the collection. Plexi glass hats to match. Mesh, patent leather and even denim made up for some unexpected creations. A sheer CC bathing suit was given a little more ‘body’ by an enormous Chanel beach bag, which had straps as large as hula hoops.
Designs were decorated by large collars, cute windmill appliqués and floral 3D embroideries. An eastern twist was given by colorful folded origami windmills on several sheer black looks. They were followed by a few quilted pieces as a series of white dresses closed the show.
Karl once again succeeded in reviving Chanel’s archive pieces with a welcome youthful, sporty and Eastern inspired touch.
It was not the most easy job to take the helm at a house like Saint Laurent. Hedi Slimane delivered his first collection yesterday, ans some people seemed a bit disappointed. Yes, it was edgy, it was chic and it was skinny, but it looked more like a costume parade than a new take on what Yves Saint Laurent created. The first look was a small black jacket with skinny black pants, a white frilled shirt, big, soft bow at the neck anda bigger-brimmed fedora. This was followed by countless variations of the same — the fabrics changing from wool to leather to glitz to pinstripes and from cotton to silk and back. Slimane incorporated typical YSL codes to be developed in the future: tailoring, smoking, gypsy tiers, long evening-dresses, saharienne, animal spots, demonstrative jewelry.
The clothes were good, but on the safe side: slick, sexy pants, jackets and shirts, which didn’t scream retro and gowns that women will want to wear. But Slimane needs to add more, a risky sizzle that let women crave for Saint Laurent.
Oversize clean looks are Clare Waight Keller’s biggest bet for 2013. They were given both sporty and elegant references like bold shapes, reflecting sleeve details and flower appliqués. Perhaps Keller took the girly-ness a little too far when she sent out a series of sweet, sheer and ruffled dresses. But at least she presented them in this season’s it-way; worn over Bermuda shorts (another hit for SS2013). Blouses with standing collars and cross over jackets added a subtle touch of Asia. In Palais de Tokyo an Chloé exhibition which covers 60 years of the brand has just opened. And this collection would have fit in just fine.
Tailored suits and pretty dresses alternated each other in the first few Valli looks. A perfect balance of strong and soft, which slowly merged with one another as the show continued. There might have been a lot of masculine influences; every look was chic and sophisticated. Jumpsuits were given small legs and shorts sleeves. Structured cropped jackets were combined with sheer tops and sexy briefs. Plus low V-necks and peplum details added an extra dose of femininity to the collection, without making it too fussy and frilly. Greys, blacks and whites got a touch of red towards the end. Gold and silver beaded creations looked chic for both Valli’s old and young clientèle. And they might put their panties on display a little too often, Valli’s women will be perfectly dressed gals next summer.
Stella McCartney seemed in a happy mood regarding her ss2013 collection in vibrant whites, oranges and shots of green – and some black. The colors were incorporated into an inventive lineup. In a season where sheer fabrics and layers are seen everywhere, McCartney added layering pants — see-through pajamas under cropped trousers or long, crisp eyelets over snappy shorts. She also used structured organza for an warm-up jacket and sweatshirt. And McCartney combined sweatshirts over a dress in a key motif, superlean ribbed knits featuring big, bright ellipses on sheer plissé. On the tailored side, low-belted jackets and tuxedo-inspired day dresses looked simple and smart.
A graphic component ran throughout, achieved with geometric layering and the recurring elliptical motif.
Riccardo Tisci presented a wonderful collection yesterday where he mixed serenity and edge into something special. His references were the Sixties and the archives of the Givenchy-house for the shapes. He also took inspiration from nuns for the purity and lightness.
And it all came together: ecclesiastical through the colors (baby blue, white and black), the feeling of restraint (signalled by rivets holding waists and shoulders in place and worn around necks as chokers), and through the shapes – which played on covering up.
Tisci’s catholic backround turned up in the priest collars on his sixties shifts, in the voluminous bishop sleeves on a striking black jacke, in the split skirts worn with crisp, dry blazers and pants, like church vestments.
The theatrical romance of the labels´founders was absent, yet the enormous hats of layered tulle reminded us we were indeed attending a Galliano show. Bill Gaytten sobered things up for the brand as he sent crispy clean oversize garments out on the runway. Endless fabrics were tossed, turned and folded (again the origami references) into elegant evening gowns in white, salmon, black and blue. Next to the mono colored pieces he introduced prints (and not the most subtle ones). City-inspired prints of hundreds of cars in standstill traffic slightly disturbed the ladylike feeling of the collection. Yet they did make the designs appear slightly more youthful and modern. Fascinated by the structured stiffness of Gayttens creations we open mouthedly watched the (mostly) A-line shaped creations come and go. How we would love to strut around in one of those blue maxi pants for one day.
Turquoise, camel, brown, yellow and blue; a gorgeous color palette was Christophe Lemaire’s first hit ingredient to the Hermès spring collection. His oriental aloha prints that popped up several times during the show were a second success part. And combined with perfect tailoring; there were lots of strong looks to be spotted.
Full on leather looks, like a turquoise croc ensemble, and leather detailing put the H into Hermès. And of course new Birkin bags (a weekender and a backpack) had to be introduced.
To complete the celebration of all things Hermès the models wore the brand’s scarves (in contrasting prints) around their necks (held together by a chic pin) and around their wrists. Even a fashion newby would be able to see what articles Hermès’ focuses on. Yet we don’t blame Lemaire. A heritage as strong as that of Hermès has all the right to be put on display.
A new kind of minimalism was Ennio Capasa’s starting point for Costume National SS2013. With so many brands focusing on minimalism the designer decided to bring something different to the table; minimalism with more technique, elegance and more of a couture feeling. His creations indeed were minimalism with a twist. A twist mostly formed by a print of an aloe leaf and bird wing snipped with scissors (even on a pair on sunglasses!). Capasa experienced with color too; mixing unlikely shades as red and fuchsia, but also navy and black together in a series of tuxedo looks. Matador hats, leather clutch bags and unexpected asymmetrical details in almost every piece of fabric further strengthened the collection. One thing’s for certain CN’s minimalism was unlike any other kind we’ve seen the last couple of weeks.