Finally some beautiful men backstage at the shows. Something totally different than the days before. Enjoy!
We’ve seen the sensitive side of Sjaak Hullekes so many times, but for fall/winter 2013 it’s time for something different. The talented menswear designer will present a collection of edgy and tough work wear, simply because he felt like it. We spoke to Sjaak about his inspiration for upcoming winter and more…
Why is it important for you to present your designs during Amsterdam Fashion Week?
“I feel AFW is becoming a more realistic platform to present my work to press and buyers every year. After last season’s show I had five new selling points for Sjaak Hullekes. That is great immediate result. Since the show area has changed (around 1250 people can fit into the new location) the prices have gone up. It is thanks to the sponsors I can present my collection.”
What can you tell us about ‘the new Sjaak Hullekes’?
“The new Sjaak Hullekes is tougher, less colorful and more balanced. His style is a mix of sporty, casual and formal clothing. I opted for this new, slightly more edgy collection, because I personally had the need for it. I felt like I was missing that part of menswear.”
What did you use as your source of inspiration?
“I have been looking at the working class of the eighties. I thought of factories that closed, people together is small buses, some sort of group spirit. It made me play with work wear and it leaded to the collection being very dark, even though I always claimed I would never use black.”
This year you’ve launched your own perfume and underwear line. Are you planning on adding any other new line to the Sjaak Hullekes collection?
“I am not planning on showing new things like that during the show, yet I would love to add my own leather and knits. In this collection you will see knits, but they’re produced by a group of 20 Portuguese ladies. They are creating sweaters, scarfs and accessories for the show. The collection will have texture, it will have more body, but it will still be refined thanks to this kind of hand work. This upcoming season my man may look more tough, the sensitive Sjaak is still there.”
Sjaak Hullekes will present his new menswear collection for fall/winter 2013 on Friday 25 January on 03.00 P.M.
The atmosphere backstage at Sjaak Hullekes was as special as frontstage. The designer seemed quite relaxed as he was dressing the models and added a finishing touch.
The audience really enjoyed the poetic show of Sjaak Hullekes. The frontrow watched a modern dandy walking by in neutral colors made of soft fabrics and paired with raffia-loafers.
Japanese sounds and handmade fans on our chairs; let’s start the show!
Inspired by the prewar Japan and traditional Japanese music, Min‘yō (the name of the collection) representing the idea of continuation, Sjaak Hullekes presented a very well tailored, wearable and cohesive collection. To the sounds of a live cello in the corner of the catwalk (yet another form of live music this week) the male models appeared. They wore small fitting pleated pants, elegant shirts, non-lined safari jackets and handmade nature-inspired loafers. And Sjaak’s favorite piece, a terracotta shaded safari jacket with a collar and pockets in a contrasting fabric, indeed was one of the showstoppers of the collection.
Sjaak chose slightly smaller models this time and the fit of his clothing was smaller this time than with his previous collections. Yet still some of those tiny shorts fitted extremely tight, giving them a dandy, modern touch.
Everything looked really Eastern inspired. Like a collarless trenchcoat, a cardigan with standing collar, several sheers tops and a very small vintage navy fan print. Every piece of clothing was made in a slightly faded color (mint green orange, purple, olive, sand, terracotta) inspired by sepia pictures of people in Japan from before and after the industrialization.
Overall Sjaak showed a qualitative menswear collection, which his growing fan base will certainly appreciate. Let’s hope for his Amsterdam based fans it won’t take long until his new store opens.
Read more about this collection in our Sjaak Hullekes Amsterdam Fashion Week Preview.
After his Moroccan inspired collection last season, Sjaak Hullekes will present a Japan oriented collection of menswear this time. “I was inspired by Japan from before and after the industrialization. People in Japan really focus on tradition. Sepia pictures of traditionally dressed people in front of a flat were the starting point. Besides the Japanese style is just very beautiful. I love the folklore aspect of their way of dressing”, Sjaak says.
The Japanese influences will be visible through the details of the clothes. “Menswear is always very much about details and with this collection it’s no different. You’ll recognize the Japanese style through the standing colors, certain fabrics, dessins and the Eastern overlap we used.”
The Japan theme reaches even further. “The music, the colors and the title of the collection are Japan inspired as well. We’ve used faded colors, which we’ve seen in the sepia pictures, like beige, faded green, navy and brown/orange shades. The title of the collection is Min‘yō, which is traditional Japanese music. It represent the idea of continuing something and passing it on, which really appealed to me.”
Throughout the new spring/summer collection, which will feature around thirty looks, the deconstructed signature of Sjaak Hullekes will be visible. “With most of my designs you can really see how they are created. I always look for fabrics and colors that give a design a certain strength. Plus, something has to feel really comfortable, like some of my jackets which are not lined.”
“The casual part of the collection is bigger this time than before. This because I personally really wanted to extend it. I want to wear more casual pieces myself. Therefore you’ll see more short jackets and safari jackets. One of the deconstructed jackets is my absolute favorite; it’s insane! It has a terracotta shade and we’ve used a contrasting fabric for both the color and the pockets. I think and hope it is going to do well.”
Head to toe
Sjaak recently launched his own perfume and will launch a collection of underwear (this collection will not be shown during Amsterdam Fashion Week) very soon; all part of the bigger plan. “I really feel the need to be able to dress a man from head to toe. I want to be a complete fashion house. The underwear, which is a very basic brief in both white and navy, arrives next week and will be sold quickly after that.”
“We’ve also just introduced our made to measure service, we are looking for our own store in Amsterdam and we’re working on a business-to-business level with companies like Microsoft, which is so much fun.”
Sjaak Hullekes will present his new menswear collection on Saturday 14 July at 06.00 PM
Fashion is vaporized. All cameras are packed. Make up dissolved. The stage disappeared. This 16th edition of Amsterdam Fashion Week attracted almost 20.000 people. Visitors enjoyed the vibe and nice shows, to name some highlights: the openingnight with Bas Kosters and Sjaak Hullekes, the Lab-shows, Sage & Ivy-show, SIS by Spijkers & Spijkers, Jan Boelo and the Cast Iron-show. A special thanks to the organization of Amsterdam Fashionweek who made it all work out smoothly.
We’re on our way already to the next fashionweeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris.
So we’ll meet again.
This edition of Amsterdam Fashion Week we focus at designers and their biggest supporters: their family. Where would they be without their mom, dad, brother(s), sister(s)and or grandma’s? They help finishing their designs, they drive the car, they cheer them up and cry emotional tears. The second family we would like to present is Sjaak Hullekes & partner Sebastiaan Kramer and their large group of family-members. Meet Sjaaks relatives brother Bram & Freek, sisters Floor & Evelien, father Maarten and mother Mirjam; Sebastian’s family are big supporters as well, especially his brothers Benjamin, Jonathan and Gideon. Plus many others
Moroccan sounds, a Moroccan smell (!) and half naked dancers; Sjaak Hullekes’ show has started!
Inspired by Gemstone, Marrakesh, the movie Pink Narcissus and clips of Serpentine Dancers Sjaak presented a beautiful collection in warm, rich shades like amber and aubergine.
He showed perfectly tailored pants, shirts and jackets. There were gorgeous woolen winter coats and perfect felt hats. Sjaak even designed some underwear (including a few strings!) worn by eight dancers who made the show extra special.
It’s been five years since Sjaak showed his work during Amsterdam Fashion Week and we’re very glad he is back!
The goodiebag contained
Diary 2012 Paperblanks
Photo cover Prada LG
Two books of Sjaak Hullekes New collection
Estimated Value: 10 euro