It was not only the Just Cavalli show earlier this week that demonstrated a different ‘Cavalli-feeling’; the Roberto Cavalli line took on a new chapter. The designer seemed to have headed into a new direction for fall leaving out his regular animal prints and over the top sexiness. His printed suits and fur coats were still very Cavalli. Yet his short metallic shift dresses, his oriental printed chunky sweaters and his transparent floral printed ensembles could just as well have come out of a different designer’s collection. Besides black and whites Cavalli introduced deep mineral shades and with floral prints, sheerness and statement making jewelry he added a touch of romance to his industrial collection.
This ss 2013 collection looked like a Cavalli in a calm, almost Zen mode. Instead of all sex appeal it was pure elegance and modernity. The show opened with a group of white looks in a clean silhouette with tailored jackets, crisp shirts and flared pants with extravagant treatments, like draped fringe and leather that was laser-cut and embroidered to look like lace. Prints were shown mostly in black and white, with a few muted neons.
The soft palette and simple shapes had a calming effect on Cavalli’s extremely sexy items like the lean, elaborately beaded evening gowns with low cutouts on the hips, down the midriff and around the bust.
The tiger stripes, leopard spots and croc details (Cavalli’s signature animal details) were still all there. Yet Daniele Cavalli presented them in a more subtle way than Roberto would probably have done.
The boys walking the show looked tough in their leather jackets, statement coats and capes. They rocked suit jackets with croc patterns, whole looks in feather print, tiger printed blouses and chevron patterned coats. One of them even got away with wearing a poncho at the very end of the show.
Besides the common grey and black, we see so much of every fall/winter collection, Daniele added a some looks in yellow, pink and blue/violet. A nice cheerful touch to a collection, which was already a clear stand out.
Going from the Giorgio Armani show to that of Roberto Cavalli is quite a change. From sober to over the top, from sophisticated to sexy. And we don’t mean that in a bad way. Cavalli was overwhelming as ever, presenting lots of color, gold, embroideries and – of course – animal prints.
Cavalli too, dropped his waist. He even accentuated the models hips by thick leather belts.
It was a super feminine collection even though lots of masculine influences could be seen. Like the sharp looking suits, the tough embossed leather jackets and the suit jackets (with black strips) worn with long evening gowns.
A nice mix of styles for the Cavalli woman who doesn’t want to loose any of her sex appeal by wearing what’s in fashion right now. For next spring she mustn’t worry; the sexiness was everywhere (the colors, the prints, the shiny element and the silhouette), you can leave that up to Roberto.
It was the first time Roberto Cavalli’s son Daniele Cavalli had some influence on the menswear-collection. His father asked him to add some youthful juice to the line. He presented an almost clean collection, where blue-tones and white played a central role plus some bold colors. The show was a romantic take on Riviera summers with influences from all over the world. Instead of playboys in flirty clothes came men dressed smart casual in natty blazers, suits in vivid fuchsia, yellow or purple/blue, and jackets with inserts of python.It seemed the young designer wanted to do a very good job, not too cool and hip.
And somehow it worked out fine, to be honest: it was better than all the rock ‘ roll, Jim Morrison meets Mick Jagger inspired Cavalli-collections we’ve seen in the past seasons. Although it lacked a bit of irony.
We were able to go backstage at Roberto Cavalli and watch the hair- and make-up team transforming the models in Cavalli-beauties. We actually spotted a new way of killing time at the models: reading thick novels. Our fashion-booklist will follow soon!
It was a typical Roberto Cavalli-show, full of boho-chic in muddy colors, faded animalprints and thin layers.
Cavalli took last season’s hippie babe and pushed her forward a decade for a futuristic Eighties/baroque mash-up. There were some tribal elements (feathers, prints) and the models hungrily stalked the catwalk like they were recovering from an all-night rager. Also present were strong-shouldered jackets over pants and short drop-waist dresses. They were over-embellished and rendered in a myriad of ways: spliced, sliced, fringed, feathered and beaded, in a palette of gold, bronze, blacks and blood red. Cavalli explored a different sort of decadence by night with gowns skewing from gothic to ethereal.
With his spring/summer collection for 2010 Roberto Cavalli celebrated 40 years in fashion. The man that brought us sexy, fluid dresses in all kinds of animal-prints,bohemian rockstar-clothes in python or crocodile and the real Italian style did not opt for a retrospective show. He invited a lot of his favorite models though and some were even walking in the show, like Laetitia Casta and Natalia Vodianova.
The others, Nadege and Heid Klum, watched the show front row together with Taylor Swift, Leona Lewis and Elisabetta Canalis. They saw a very condensed collection that consisted of four things Cavalli is known for: long fringes, long dresses, catsuits and python(prints). Hip-hugging bellbottoms and long webby skirts were worn with tops that left hips, back and bellies exposed. Underneath the models wore bikini-tops. They looked like tribal hippies with their flat ironed hair.
The collection had nothing to do with color or minimalism, as we’ve seen elsewhere in Milan this week. This was Roberto’s own trip and he used his signature elements well.
Three ninjas dressed in black dramatically lit a big Olympic Flame at the courtyard of the Palazzo del Senato’s courtyard – it marked the start of the Roberto Cavalli show but also the celebration of his 40th anniversary.
Instead of digging into his heritage of rich hippie westcoast rock-dandy dressing a la Lenny Kravitz (those were the most interesting and exciting collections of Cavalli) the designer got stuck in black/white/blue suits mixed with animalprints at shirts and kerchiefs. Wild were the pants and shirts with big flowerprints Cavalli saw in Indonesia – but somehow it all looked too uninspired and a bit hurried. It’s a pity, because men’s fashion can use some spicy stuff.
This year fashion label Roberto Cavalli celebrates it’s fortieth birthday. 2010 also happens to be the year in which designer Roberto Cavalli himself, like many of his first customers, turns seventy. Time to take a look back on Cavalli’s work from over the years.
Roberto Cavalli, who started working in fashion just to make some money, became first known for his printing techniques. After he had been hired by great fashion labels he decided he could just as well do it on his own. He set up his own fashion label.
Cavalli’s first collections were best described as boho- and hippie-chic. He knew innovative techniques to use silk and leather. His designs were ultra-feminine and heavily decorated and they were loved by the wealthy people in Saint-Tropez (his first boutique was also opened there).
After a small downfall Cavalli makes a comeback in de nineties, by that time assisted by his – much younger – wife Eva Duringer. His clothes, best known for their outstanding animal prints, embroideries and other embellishments are worn by the rich and the famous. All of those women confident, sexy and super glamorous. (The reason Cavalli women are so often referred to as glamazones).
Celebrities proved to be a great way of promoting the brand. Victoria Beckham, Jade Jagger, Hally Berry, El Macferson and Jennifer Lopez were often spotted in Roberto Cavalli’s designs. They were the ideal women to promote Cavalli’s clothes, cause with their sex appeal and confidence they can perfectly show off Cavalli’s fearless designs.
After years of glamorous collections Roberto Cavalli decided to move in a new direction. The past few years he has slightly changed his designs away from the limelight. Cavalli’s so well-known animal prints sometimes were not used at all or, like in his latest collection, were used in a faded variant. His colors have become less outspoken and his heels – from time to time – even turned to flats. Cavalli introduced suits and overalls and with his boyish designs he showed a more subtle sexy. The new Cavalli woman proved to be less of a show-off, but Cavalli has kept his customers satisfied.
Judging from how Roberto Cavalli is doing now we think he’ll have no problem celebrating the brands fiftieth anniversary in ten years. Cause although he admitted he’s less of a party animal, Cavalli (thanks to his wife Eva) is still going strong. But let’s first just celebrate the clothes he made over the past forty years. We selected the most eye-catching, showstopping pieces out of Cavalli’s last ten collections. Enjoy!
Cavalli has big plans for his label’s fortieth anniversary and is working on a book about his career in fashion. We’ll keep you posted!