Peter Dundas, the British designer at Pucci, proved himself capable of designing collections for this Florentine house without the famous kaleidoscopic Pucci-prints. And still, it’s as glamorous and elegant as it ever was.
For Spring, Dundas filtered his style signatures through the lens of Vietnam. The designer used occasional military reference as well as traditional Asian motifs and showed bomber jackets, sheer veiling, tattoo embroideries, and a cargo jacket in kimono-style. The collection did have some prints, but they were not the focus. This time Dundas layered a woodblock motif over the vintage find to make it modern.
Peter Dundas presented his first Pucci-menswear yesterday during his women’s fallshow. Not really exciting stuff, so most attention went to the women’s clothes. For Fall he’s got inspired by a long list of topics: hunters, Tyrol, winter palaces, Romy Schneider as Sissi and Victoire de Castellane, the designer of Dior’s haute joaillerie.
The bust was the center point of the collection, Dundas framed it with corseted hourglass dresses that had long sleeves and a little collar or a bow at the neckline. These came in all manner of materials, from practically humble loden wool to sumptuous black velvet embellished with crystals arrayed in diamond patterns, as well as in the familiar Pucci prints.
Making good on the promise of his sexy debut, Peter Dundas turned out a sizzling collection for Spring/Summer at Emilio Pucci. It is, of course, the season the house was made for, having been established on jet-set Capri in the 1960′s, but it also doesn’t hurt that Dundas is an avid scuba diver. The underwater universe produced some aqueous prints that also formed the basis of allover-sequined dresses. Neoprene diving suits informed a few long-sleeve minidresses with curve-enhancing mesh insets.
Some of the hottest swimwear of the season strutted down the narrow runway. One or two in snakeskin aren’t advisable for actually getting wet. The season’s all-important jacket? He cuts a mean one: cropped, fitted, with lean arms and a flippy hem.
Peter Dundas showed some highly elegant summerwear in his second collection Emilio Pucci. Superfeminine and airy dresses dictated the Pucci-look for summer 2010. Dundas used snake prints, shiny and transparent fabrics and sequins. Lots of nudes, some silver, black and yellow could be seen. And some outfits in different shades of blue felt like diving into the ocean. The models showed beautiful bathingsuits with geometrical cutouts in unexpected places. There were a few pants, worn just below the knee, with buttons on the side. But those paled into insignificance next to some dresses. All eyes were on a long yellow dress with an extremely low cut neckline and the perfect finishing. A white dress almost looked like a wedding dress. Apart from a few bags and some gold-buckled belts there were no accessories. However, because of all the sequined and silver details you didn’t even miss them. Overall Dundas designed some perfect outfits in which you can lounge about on the beach or party until midnight. (Tess van Daelen)