Wet hair, bare shoulders, a subtle cleavage and cool sunnies; Prada’s girls, who appeared from a mysterious shadowy backdrop (with birds and a cat), looked quite sensual today. Yet at the same time their looks breathed old school glamour and raw elegance. The girls sported tweed dresses thrown over long sleeve tops, oversize bags, bold shoes and ladylike coats with accentuated waists and statement making dimpled fur cuffs. There were checks and stripes; continuing the current graphic trend.
Though given a modern twist the looks has a cinematic forties vibe. Deep winter shades were put in the mix with light pastels. No combination we would soon leave the house in, but after tonight it might just become our most favourite colour match.
And that is in fact Miuccia’s power; she can present new, unexpected, slightly off styles you would never come up with or even hate at first sight and turn them into the most desirable looks for the upcoming season within a few months. Right on time, before we start shopping for our new wardrobe.
Were they in a hurry getting dressed? Prada’s men came up with their shirts untucked and an out of bed hairdo. Wearing checked shirts, cashmere sweaters, colored leather jackets and woolen coats, they made a studentlike impression. Even though some of the models college period probably was a long time ago. The designs took us back a few decades, the seventies perhaps. But still Miuccia managed to make them appear modern. And, more importantly, the clothes, which Miuccia described as “perfect classics of the moment” looked extremely wearable. “Fashion is basically about what you want to wear,” she said. And who would not want to wear that chocolate brown suit or that stunning camel coat with the bright red collar?
Toughness and the poetic part. That was where Prada’s collection for ss2013 was all about. To WWD she explained that she wanted to mix these two together, ‘because this is mainly what wiomen have to deal with in reality. The clothes are the expression of this impossible dream’.
The clothes were neither overtly romantic nor wistful, the shapes almost severe. The first look was a short black dress emblazoned with an off-center panel decorated with two white long flowers. Then followed a parade of similarly crafted suits, dresses, jackets over knee shorts, their printed and appliquéd flowers providing a sweet touch to the severe shapes. You could see references to traditional Japanese kimonos, hakamas and footwear, as well as hints of lingerie. There was also some color: dark green, navy, splashes of red, and pastels.
Prada took the audience back in time with her menswear-collection. She wanted return to something simple she told editors. Simpel it was, for instance no prints, no funny colors. There were seventies silhouettes and vintage-colors, but what stood out was the graphic play with colors blocking and contrast. The underlying feeling was sporty and athletic, like the tank tops and tennis sweaters plus the sports-slippers.
The shapes were straightforward: two-button suits with patch pockets and slightly flared pants, polo shirts with contrasting collars and plackets, short-sleeve leisure jackets and tubular coats. A band of contrasting color flashed inside the pant legs. Broad borders appeared on trim, lightweight coats.
Strength and the power of beauty, those seemed to be the idea s behind the Prada fall 2012 collection. The clothes were elegant, though a bit heavy sometimes, and contained all the classic elements Prada’s known for: the black, the appliqued stones, the suit, the awkward colors and vintage prints. New was the layered silhouette, that sometimes reminded of the way modern Muslim-women dress. The tailoring emphasized the high waist and long line as well as pants. Black dominated, followed by mustard, blue, orange and brown/pink. There were belted jackets, coats, tunics and dresses topping pants which were cut above the ankles.
Shoes were (platform) high, with a round toe and decorated. Bags started out big, but in the end the became so small they could only carry an iPhone.
Again, powerdressing was the theme of a collection. And what a collection. Miuccia Prada said goodbye to all the cheerful bold colors and prints of last season and embraced the powerful men. To the press she described the collection as a riff on powerful men, and how fashion can telegraph authority, might or supremacy. Clothing is a tool of power and a way to express male vanity, she said. Yes, we knew that already.
Dressed in severe coats reminding of Eastern Bloc military dress, the models and actors Willem Dafoe, Tim Roth, Adrien Brody and Gary Oldman walked a massive, carpeted space. The first outfit set a military tone: a smart dark coat over a white turtleneck, slim pants and gleaming dress shoes. Belted coats in lightweight wool played a major part and they were often decorated with badges over the heart. Colors were of course a bit off beat, mustard, purple, grey and black – and the fabrics looked vintage.
Check out the video of the show below.
Shiny, streamlined and sexy like a car, that was Prada’s ss2012 womenswear-collection. The sweet colors, full (pleated) skirts and carcoats reminded of the Fifties but of course Miucca Prada added her own modern touch by the use of fabrics, prints and accessories. And instead of last summer’s bananas she presented another print that surely will be copied sooner or later: cartoon cars and Thunderbird-flames.
There was more, of course: grey felt coats with appliqué flowers all over the front in blue and cream or in orange and green; stiff, pleated skirts worn to the knee with Thunderbird-flames in pale pink broderie anglaise; cotton tube tops worn over pencil skirts; cotton house coats in pale blue with lapels in a contrasting print; dresses with elastic in the waist. This was certainly a collection to be remembered.
No doubt Miuccia Prada is into golf. Her new ss2012 menswear-collection screamed golf from head to toe. From the oversized caps to the shoes and colorful bags with clubs. She must have been on the green lately and asked herself why those golfers looked so geeky and dressed so bored. And she decided to draw a totally new world. Literary. The setting of the Prada show was unreal, as in colors and prints that were to bright, outfits that looked out of this world, too green fake grass and kitchy, shiny clubs.
But you’ll never know with Prada. The collection was a strange, casual mix of vintage-looking golfwear, rhinestone western-jackets, Sixties-inspired flowerprints and Fifties-inspired comics of jazz-musicians. Black, blue and gray played with faded yellow, blue and taupe. The silhouette was slender, with straight pants topped with double breasted jackets, a pullover, a polo or a short jacket. Scarves tied in the neck instead of ties. It all reminded me of the cliche-image people have of American men in the fifties. You’re shocked at first view, but at second sight you admire them for their courage. It’ll make the world a lot more brighter.
Jil Sander and Prada designed two of the most popular collections of this season, which made their contribution to the Arnhem Mode Biënnale extra special. Prada brought pieces of their actual Milan catwalk to Arnhem and Jil Sander’s collection can be looked at through several magnifying lenses.
Check out the gallery below:
Next to the blue and white navy-like stripes there is another world of stripes we just need to discuss. Those stripes are bold, wide and come in many different shades.
Prada’s stripes definitely are the most recognizable ones (also since they’re copied all over the world by high street fashion houses). Blue, pink, green, orange; the brighter, the better.
Karl Lagerfeld chose diagonal stripes for fendi and at Jil Sander they were extremely wide and vertical. Watanabe’s models looked like they’d just escaped from prison and Marc Jacobs gave his striped dresses a vintage feeling due to his choice of color.
We saw so many stripes on the runway, it seems there’s no way you can do without them this summer. And our advice, if you go for some stripes is: don’t hold back! Let them stand out & just have fun with it.