Who says fall collections have to be all about brown, grey and black? Paul Smith proved even prints and bright colors fit perfectly for an autumn collection. He showed suits in shades of mustard, red, flamingo pink and turquoise. Pairing a red pair of pants with a mustard jacket and combining different shades of blue in one office look. He introduced multiple colored houndstooth sweaters, a single Mondrian inspired creation and psychedelic prints popped up on a shirt and a winter coat. Models looked both confident and comfortable in the perfectly cut menswear designs. Sir Paul Smith’s ever growing Asian fan base won’t be disappointed and neither are we.
Paul Smith seemed very optimistic regarding his crisp and colorful collection. Smith’s signature slim silhouettes reminded us of the Mods — the double-breasted suit jackets had strong shoulders and were paired with ankle-length pants in mismatched shades of peach, mustard and teal. A more laid-back vibe came in cotton or leather biker and blouson jackets. The whole collection offered a modern spin on Smith’s very British tailoring.
Bearded shippers, rock stars, college boys and sportsmen all appeared from Paul Smith’s backdrops of waves. Though the designer opted for a nautical theme, the title was Portobello-on-Sea, much more could be found in this collection.
The sportive elements were in the grey sweaters with the neon details, the shiny jackets/sweaters with the busy prints on them and the body warmers. A touch of rock ‘n roll was added with high black boots, long hair, long coats and classic sunglasses. The college kid could look great in those woolen blue suit jackets and fully buttoned blouses.
A bright deep see print, which appeared on a few pants seemed inappropriate for any of those man types. Yet it did add up to the sea spirited feeling Smith tried to convey.
Some 104 shows and presentations in London in one weekend. After one week of New York fashion this seemed an unreasonable task, but journalists, buyers and photographers succeeded. And just before Milan takes off, we want to present you the highlights of London ss2012. Erdem, Burberry, Christopher Kane and Paul Smith all delivered beautiful collections which made sense and also fitted in the trends we saw already blossoming in New York.
Christopher Bailey was paying homage to all things natural. Skirts with high, tight waists teamed with form-fitting tops of striped crocheted wooden beads. Woven raffia, in stripes of mustard and navy or plum and black, made super slim, high-waisted pencil skirts under cropped, cotton Parkas. There were African inspired prints for draped dresses, jackets and skirts.
Erdem’s focus was again on florals, which he re-uses season after season. This time round they were pretty: buds of cornflower-blue, lemon and poppy-red dotted, off-the-shoulder dresses, chiffon skirts and shifts.
To create his “ghost fabric”, an iridescent metallic floral that crackled with light and movement, Christopher Kane layered four materials including an organza made almost entirely of aluminium. He mixed it up with semi-transparent dresses patched with flower stickers, washed-out pastel satins, sleeveless cricket jumpers and flat sandals.
Pringle of Scotland
This was Alistair Carr’s debut at Pringle’s womenswear. Knits were the star, from trompe l’oeil intarsia technique that made light work of chunky herringbone. Twinsets were present too, fastened at the back for summer. There were also silk dresses patchworked together with twinset buttons.
Sir Paul and his team know more about tailoring than any other womenswear designers, that’s why is menswear-inspired womenswear-collections always looks so stunning and perfect. And his use of color is unique.
The collection and show of Giles Deacon seemed a meeting of heaven and hell. The angelic looks of feathers, silver dresses and laser cuts combined with vivid red detailing to offset them. The swan became the overriding theme, featuring as it did as a print on everything from couture-esque gowns to trousers and tunic and in tiara’s. This was drama to the max.
Even for fashionista’s it’s a hot day today. So at Paul Smith the fashion crowd waiting for the show got handed out free magnums! A nice gesture and a perfect way to set the mood right for the show.
A graphic planetarium print formed the background of the catwalk show. Long haired models came on stage as the show started. Their clothing style resembled that of a rock star. Their wardrobe existed of pants with small legs and shirts with busy cosmos prints. Their shirts were loose and were combined with suit jackets or leather jackets. Some of the endings of the shirt’s collars could be tied into a bow.
Unlike we’re used to at Paul Smith the prints didn’t have bright colors. In stead they were a mix of pastels and other faded shades. The tight pants had tiny stars on them. The items without prints were all beige, denim blue, red, black or deep blue.
The styling of the show looked great and was a perfect way for Paul Smith to show off some stuff from his other lines: accessories and shoes. He did a great job, cause the round hats, necklaces, sunglasses, leather bags, backpacks and ankle-boots worked very well together.
Looking at the diverse types of models that walked in Paul Smith’s fashion show, you’d think he must have wanted to reach a large audience. The models were as different as they could be: young, old, pale, bold, long, bearded, red-haired etc.
The clothes were just as diverse. Shirts with floral prints, checked jackets, colorful trousers and bowler hats were easily combined in one look. And while some clothes were appropriate for punky students other seemed perfect for late night dinners.
In this collection Paul Smith mixed natural colors like brown, gray and beige with bright ones like pink, blue, red and purple.
A few jackets had decorated safety pins attached and we saw sunglasses in some of the breast pockets.
Items that really caught our eye were a black poncho, a long cobalt blue overcoat and a turquoise colored suit. The show ended with some slick black dinner jackets.
Then Paul Smith and all his models came on to the runway in a chaotic manner that matched the fashion show’s overall vibe.
Paul Smith’s summer-collection has that old vintage vibe with a very toned down color palette – and that’s new for Smith. The show started with sober grey suits and evolved in a more sheen part and colors from pale pastels to purple, orange/red. To make it all more relaxed he paired the suits with espadrilles and pineapple-like prints. At the finale Paul Smith and his models were dancing down the catwalk to’ Thriller ‘. This was a happy end of an interesting fashion season.