With models stepping on colored sand arranged in chevron shapes, Angela Missoni presented a collection for fashion nomads. The house’s fine, patterned knits — with their aged, sandy aspect — looked as though they came from under some desert rock. The weave pattern crept across military-flavored utility jackets, part of the brand’s expanding outerwear offer.
As the show progressed, color stepped in, with beetle-green sequins glinting across the chest of a crewneck sweater, or a zigzag blaze of poppy, ruby and pink threads erupting on a short-sleeve brown Henley in ribbed cotton and linen.
The Etro-collection was a result of a trip to India that designer Kean Etro took: a sun-faded, breezy collection of paisley print clothing. Models wore silky overcoats, baggy trousers pooled around the feet, and long tunic tops. More structured silhouettes included wrinkled red or white drummer-boy jackets with matching frogging across the front, olive linen military style jackets embroidered with rose-colored threads, and one neat navy jacket with a raised herringbone weave.
Gucci’s creative director Frida Giannini used a rich and vivid Mediterranean color palette for her youthful tailoring and retro-style holiday clothes.
What to think of head-to-toe green, watermelon and cobalt ? It sounds screaming loud, but in real they were rendered in dry, crisp fabrics like raffia, washed cotton and cotton jersey. Giannini embraced monochromatic dressing with sharp, slim suits or sweater-pant combos in shades like rust or sky blue, but she also presented tailored blazers, often double-breasted, over slim white chinos. Every look was finished with the house’s iconic horse-bit loafers, celebrating their 60th birthday next year.
The most important parts of American sportswear gave designer Italo Zucchelli inspiration for his Calvin Klein collection. The T-shirts, jeans jackets, chinos and shorts, they all came with a technical or luxury spin. Expect a come back of stone washed jeans, boxy jackets, carrot-shaped pants and T-shirts in nylon mesh. The surfer florals were the only variation, on shorts, shirts and suits.
Prada took the audience back in time with her menswear-collection. She wanted return to something simple she told editors. Simpel it was, for instance no prints, no funny colors. There were seventies silhouettes and vintage-colors, but what stood out was the graphic play with colors blocking and contrast. The underlying feeling was sporty and athletic, like the tank tops and tennis sweaters plus the sports-slippers.
The shapes were straightforward: two-button suits with patch pockets and slightly flared pants, polo shirts with contrasting collars and plackets, short-sleeve leisure jackets and tubular coats. A band of contrasting color flashed inside the pant legs. Broad borders appeared on trim, lightweight coats.
Well, that was quite a flashback at Versace yesterday! The collection and models Donatella sent out reminded us of those good old Versace days with beautiful stallions, gladiator-boxer types with blonde Adonis hair and muscles. The show kicked off with a parade of shorts and briefs from the house’s new swimwear and underwear collection. O la la!
The Versace man is not afraid of a bit excess, he wears macho medallion jewelry and isn’t shy of flashy fabrics. He is part Rocky, part Elvis and part Mr. T. The collection included shiny double-breasted suits with metallic shirts and ties; floral denim; sweet pastels from Miami; broderie anglaise effects on jackets and shirts, and sleeveless jackets with superhero shoulders. This was masculinity and camp to the max.
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana continued their hymn to Italy. This time they time-traveled to Sicily for a nostalgic Fifties spring collection. Around 70 boys and men where gathered from all over the island and they resembled characters from an old movie as they sped down the runway to a frenetic pace set by a live folk band.
The message was authenticity and the show focused on vintage clothes. Vacation-friendly sportswear, striped vests and T-shirts with a rustic hand-painted look, souvenir prints, high-waist shorts.
Shirts with flat, open collars and unconstructed suits with voluminous pleated pants came straight from a Sicilian grandfather’s wardrobe.
Utilitarian style dominated at Costume National. Sticking to the brand’s signature urban and punk vibe, Ennio Capasa played with volumes and layers resulting into a young and sophisticated collection.
The sharp look of a sleeveless leather safari jacket was softened by fluid baggy pants. There were also deconstructed tailored suits with loose shoulders.
What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Jil Sander-shoes, your latest Prada-shirt or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style.