Yohji Yamamoto Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
Too bad all men have shaved their mustaches already after Movember came to an end. If they would have continued without shaving they perhaps would have had the long mustaches Yamamoto showed this week. It was the right timing for an ode to the mustache (we have never seen so much mustache merchandise as in last year), yet they might have been a little distracting from the clothes too. Classic clothes that were given a playful touch. A red tartan printed suit was followed by a grey pleated skirt suit worn with a purple tie and a purple shaded XL leopard cardigan. There was a pair of zebra pants, a purple skirt suit, a duo colored suit, metallic pants and fur vests. Yamamoto might be dressing rockers, fathers, photographers or actors next year; he sure seemed to have had fun while creating one of his most humorous collections in a while.
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Junya Watanabe Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
It was patchwork-mania at Junya Watanabe. Loose fitting pants and wool jackets were given hobo treatment. As if Watanabe decided to hide up holes in his garments or decided to work with leftover fabrics from earlier collections. Unshaved long haired models fit the collection, wearing bowler hats on the go. Their looks had a certain British twist, that came in the form of grey pinstripe (a huge menswear trend) and tartan checked fabrics. A black and grey coat mixed with a striped pair of legging looked more scruffier due to two being combined. Jackets and body warmers worn on top of coats seemed too small, because the styling. Yet a toggle coat, a trench coat and a jacket with red shaded tartan pockets did look great. Perhaps, if we could see some of the items styled differently we would appreciate them even more.
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Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
Ann Demeulemeester had an extra feminine touch this week. Besides long tops and dramatic floor length coats models wore bowler hats with netting and seemed to wear make-up. Done is her regular color palette of blacks and whites her full length sweaters, embroidered jackets and pants tucked into lace up boots almost felt like a series of Amish Ann-designs. They didn’t appear like the most fun people to hang out with, yet dressed in such great layered pieces the mysterious models looked interesting enough to evoke a conversation.
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Jean Paul Gaultier Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
Leave it up to Jean Paul to come up with a surprising show idea every season. After his Michael Jackson, Grace Jones, Boy George-styled womenswear show of last season he, this time, entertained us with a strip show. Dressed in the many Gaultier classics his models stripped down to their grey colored long johns and leather boots. We saw forties influences and seventies style details given a subtle modern touch. Pinstriped suits, overalls with power shoulders, turtlenecks worn underneath fully buttoned shirts, a red pleated skirt and a camel colored jacket with studded arms were among the most outstanding pieces. Lots of recognizable pieces JPG has previously worked on. We can’t wait till the opening of his Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk exposition in the Netherlands next month. So we can take a close look at what may have been the foundation of this collection.
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Dries van Noten Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
Dries Van Noten opened with upcoming season’s hit item; a robe-like jacket with foulard prints in rich colors. And that sure wasn’t the only success item in this Dries collection. Perfectly dressed, relaxed models sported studded leather pants that slightly contrasted with the easy breezy silk printed pajama-like blouses. Loose fits, fringes and seventies shades gave the collection a hippie chic kind of feeling. Yet quilted bomber jackets and biker jacket details kept it modern. Etro-style paisley prints perfectly worked with a variation of tweeds and checks. It was one of those collection that just feel right, beginning to end. No trying to hard, just comfortable, beautifully made menswear pieces with the right amount of edge to keep us interested.
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Louis Vuitton Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
Kim Jones’ love for nature sure was visible in his latest fall/winter collection. He opened the show with two light leapord printed jackets and the nature inspired creations kept on coming. Fur XL collars were followed by fur coats as even a burgundy sweater with the image of a snow leopard (remember last season’s big printed sweater trend?) came by. Winter coats looked super cosy, especially combined with LV’s new type of (nightcap) beanie. The checked suits and stripes coats already breathed luxury, but the finale possibly took the collection to a higher level. With satin, bathrobe style, printed, eastern inspired jackets for those real special occasions.
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Viktor & Rolf Monsieur Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
Sporting the designer’s iconic strong glasses the Viktor & Rolf appeared from yet another Piet Paris designed backdrop. Inspired by one of Jules Verne’s stories they wore skinny suits and heavy outerwear. The fall winter color palette (of greys & blacks) might have been a little somber; the playful prints definitely made up for that. Large letters, large glasses, large shoes and the graphic guy from the backdrop popped up on sweaters, jackets, pants and even one of the bags. Whether the V&R guy is opting for sporty or chic; he’ll have lots of wearable designs to choose from come fall.
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Rick Owens Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
All the right ingredients for the perfect Rick Owens cake were in the mix today. His signature black and white color palette, his sleeveless tops, the use of leather, the belted jackets and the long tops. But we were surprised too. By the models big hair to begin with, not to mention their snow proof Ugg like boots. Those tank tops will need a few extra layers, yet the big collars, the hoodies and the oversized gloves will keep the toned Rick Owens man warm all throughout next winter.
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Valentino Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
At Valentino we were surprised by a perfect mix of British style and Italian craftmanship. Suits, with houndstooth and Tartan checks, were given a modern touch by pieces of leather and a tight fit. Models looked their best in fashionable pieces like a checked cape, a camel coat with fur detailing and a sportive army printed parka. Next to the perfectly cut leather jackets, the slick pleated pants and business chic loafers, colored classes and casual briefcases all breathed modern luxury.
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Walter van Beirendonck Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013
We’e not sure how the male models felt afterwards, but the van Beirendonck show sure put us in a good mood. The Belgium designer showed some pretty street chic on trend quilted pants, followed by black leather, busy printed, XXL and argyle ones. And it was not just those pants that made us smile. Walter created suit jackets, vests and knitted sweater in the same style. All very colorful with a shiny disco twist. Checked bathrobe like coats got metallic fringes as extra eye catchers; the same kind of colored metallic that was used for the shoes, mouth and earpieces. A theatrical collection like you could expect from a Opéra Garnier costume designer.
