Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

June 26, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Paris

Raf Simons’ own ss2012 collection was well balanced. A tailored black suit was the canvas on which the Belgian designer build his minimalistic vision, with roomy coats (and some tunics)  in mismatched checks or pastel-colors, sleeveless leather T-shirts, sleeveless knits with a small flower-print or shirts in contrasting black & white.

Especially the colorful checks added an upbeat character to this strict and minimal collection.

Dior Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

June 26, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Paris

Kris van Assche continued to celebrate the art of tailoring at the Dior Homme-collection. The ss2012 collection looked plain & minimal but oh so luxurious.

Shirts and tapered trousers came in natural linen and were trimmed in lambskin. Trenches appeared in powdery silk taffeta. Jackets were the stars of this precise and youthful collection, from handsome double-breasted numbers to roomy shirt-like and tunic styles, often closed at the throat and flaring open. The black hats. shoes and leather wristbands were the only contrasting details.

Comme des Garcons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

June 25, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Paris

Comme des Garcons again played the game of female and male dressing, Lace, pink, shiny fabrics, polka dots, crystal studs, frills – you really have to be a daredevil to wear this clothes with an attitude. But it stays interesting how Rei Kawakubo keeps on pushing the boundaries of men’s clothing, the codes etcetera.

The plot seemed to be an English boy who dreams of being a dandy prince.  Well, that explains something. What’s left after you leave all the decoration out, are nice long coats, good trenches and simple pants. But it’s the eccentricity that makes it worth looking at….

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

June 25, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Paris

Again Riccardo Tisci was inro prints. After the dogs, the pin-ups and black panthers of this winter, he presented a new view on the Hawaian print in his ss2012 collection for Givenchy. And in a season where the Versace-esque print is making a come back it didn’t look weird at all. Actually, it looked beautiful in a streetwise way. His kaleidoscopic arrangements of bird-of-paradise flowers reminded us of eighties Miami as did the sweet colors with a contrasting role for green.

It certainly will find his way to the copycats, since the print appeared on everything from suits to sweatshirts, basketball jerseys and Bermudas. He also continued to push his favorite mix of XL sportswear with kilts, mostly in all white.

Kris van Assche Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

June 24, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Paris

Kris van Assche’s spring summer collection for 2012 is build around the new suit, with wider pants and jackets.  They all came with heavy-soled boots, mirrored shades and hats, adding a punkish touch to the uniformity. Van Assche kept his favorite color palette: white, black, beige and shades of gray, with flashes of red in printed shirts.

Yves St. Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

June 24, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Paris

Stefano Pilati kept it clean and classic for YSL ss2012. He started with impeccable tailored suits in navy where the message was in the details of lapels, cut and fabrics. Then he switched to sportswear inspired items all in white followed by a selection of experimental safari-inspired outfits in khaki.

It all resulted in military-style jackets, double-breasted coats and funnel-necked shirts. Large cargo pockets were placed  on pants, and curved all the way around the back of blazers. Safari jackets are all over the runways, and of course Pilati did not miss a chance to use an iconic YSL style.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

June 24, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris

Junya Watanabe presented a very simple collection focused at dungarees. They came in all kinds of fabrics and prints, from tough denim tot cotton checks or tartan fabrics. And they were often worn with rugged boots or rubber boots. The result was a country-inspired collection, which also explained the setting in a garden in Paris.

It was another, different way of exploring workwear, a theme Watanabe likes to work at and which still gives him new inspiration after all that time. This time the looks echoed both the American and European outdoors, but it were the tailored jackets and shirts that gave it a certain edge.

Walter van Beirendonck Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

June 24, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Paris

It was a very sweet and tailored collection Walter van Beirendonck presented today. The jackets, shirts and pants had all a suburban dad-twist and tribal touches – though there is always a message underneath the clothes. On shredded T-shirts it said “Dream the World. Awake. Well, he surely got our attention!

And he will after the summer, when his first large scale retrospective will open at the Antwerp Fashion Museum in september.

Backstage at Viktor & Rolf Monsieur SS2012

The team got the opportunity to go backstage at Viktor & Rolf Monsieur. Meet Florian and Martin, watch the dressers, hairdressers and make-uppeople work hard to transfer the boys into chic casual Seventies playboys. And did you see those cool sunglasses? They covered the small glasses that were underneath, a cool way to keep you spec on. We enjoyed it!

 

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

June 24, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris

Jean Paul Gaultier kept it simple during his ss2012 presentation, the showroom was the dressing-room was the stage. So the audience, sitting at the tables where normally buyers write their orders, witnessed the models getting dressed and send off to the catwalk. It was a nice setting to underline the commercial purpose of JPG’s collection. Because it’s all about selling, no.

And commercial it was, from the Hawaiian prints to the sailor-sweaters. There were tailored jackets, fluid silk pants and natty shorts, but also the biker jackets and sporty blouson jackets with tailored pants. It was low key, but effective. Nothing new, all salable.

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