Roomy, bathrobelike toppers in thick fabrics were the key-items of Max Mara’s collection, along with loose pants that fell over brown-and-mustard sneakers. The Max Mara design team took a little inspiration from Bauhaus and stuck to a basic palette of camel, gray, black and dark blue, keeping the focus on shapes, and outerwear. Rounded shoulders were sometimes accentuated with leather patches.
Beige, sand, black; for SS2013 Max Mara stuck to the basic color palette, we’ve been seeing for quite a few seasons now. And we couldn’t blame the brand that has booked quite a few successes (remember the popular camel colored statement coats?). This time around there was a lot more at sight though. Neutral shades were mixed with leopard and floral prints, checks and a touch of shiny lavender blue.
The models’ dress code appeared to be a mix of sporty, safari and chic as the girls combined animal printed pencil skirts and loose fitting striped tees. Jackets looked chic and tough at the same time and materials like suede, wool and silk worked together perfectly. Jumpsuits, oversized bags, sloughy headbands, epaulettes and ankle strap shoes completed Max Mara’s urban jungle… We sure can’t wait to work those leopard & checks prints!
Bauhaus architecture and the movies of Fritz Lang were inspirations for MaxMara’s clean shapes accentuated by a single sharp detail or contrast, like a wool coat with a skirt of shaven fur or wool jersey tops banded in crocodile-print leather. There were also wool dresses and jackets with draped backs that reminded of a classic couture shape, and a revival of the jumpsuit, now looking like a short wool jacket with slim trousers. Sometimes it had a naval character with the navy blue coats, breton-striped shirts and wide pants. And not only the navy went through the collection, also trher military influences.
The sporty vibe initiated in NYC continues this week in Milan. This morning Max Mara too, presented us with some very sporty designs. Like oversized dresses worn with leggings and short leather ‘baseball’ jackets.
Yet sport wasn’t the only theme of the show; we spotted some minimalism and some sixties as well. Not the Twiggy kind of sixties though, no it was the pure aesthetic of that decade that inspired Ian Griffiths, head of the Max Mara design team. It was the futuristic silhouette and the clean lines that originated from that inspiration.
Everything looked like it was made for comfort. If a jacket didn’t need an extra pocket, it didn’t get one and all kind of other extras (zippers, belts, studs) were left behind for the ultimate minimalism look & feel.
The many camel and sandtones weren’t necessarily new for Max Mara, but the added turquoise hues gave the collection the right amount of summer freshness. It will be an easy-chic summer 2012 with Max Mara.
Somehow the summerseason is never the strongest at Max Mara. Winter means coats and they’re good at that. So the trenchcoats and suits were the best of the spring summer collection plus the long dresses in solid colors like red, purple and yellow.
Color was an important theme of the collection besides minimalism. The team at Max Mara tried to translate the big trend of next summer into a special look, but somehow the short flared pants looked a bit outdated and too tight for now and the use of some hairy fabric did not quite succeed. And even the translation of a minimal style was not totally convincing. Although the striped jackets and dresses and nude-colored shirts and shorts were a good shot.
You could consider a pair of jeans and a white t-shirt as everlasting basics. However, even basics change a little bit every year.
A few seasons ago some slim fit pants were indispensable. For next summer a pair of wide-legged beige pants, a straightforward skirt, a loose-fitting jacket and a long cardigan are the season’s must haves. We saw many of these items at Stella McCartney’s show.
What’s so great about these clothes? You can easily mix them with the rest of your wardrobe. Especially the beige pants can go well with almost every color. The jackets and cardigans can be worn in a masculine way but with a waistbelt they will look very ladylike. We could see this combination in many shows.
The MaxMara, Chloé and Tommy Hilfiger fashion shows all had some great basics with which you can make endless variations.
Tess van Daelen