Iris van Herpen is working on her very first ready to wear collection as we speak. Yet she didn’t let that exciting new project get in the way of delivering a picture perfect couture collection in Paris this week. With her fourth couture show Iris showed a small selection of dresses inspired by the unpredictable aspect of lightning. Starshaped twizzling energy points, made with the use of a 3D printer, translated the lightning in her designs, which breathed originality, craftsmanship and a progressive fashion attitude.
Hybrid Holism is the title of Iris van Herpens last collection, It’s divers and complex in terms of form, structure and material. With this collection Van Herpen introduces a new technique called ‘Mammoth Stereo Lithograph’. Its 3D printing process is build part by part in a layer of polymer. The polymer gets hard when in contact with a laserbeam, the result is a layered and complex form. For this 3D print Iris van Herpen collaborated with Materialise and architect Julia Koerner. Innovation always plays a major part in Van Herpens work.
In this collections she used Swarovski crystals, lace made of silicone, copper, Ecco leer and acrylic transparent skin. Colors like black. dark red and dark blue are mixed with metallic purple and transparent amber.
Dutch artist/designer Iris van Herpen was an official guest at the calendar of the Haute Couture-shows in Paris. Again she surprised the audience with a breathtaking collection.
With the presentation of her fall-winter 2012 collection during Paris couture-week Iris van Herpen proved that couture is really a platform for creativity. She keeps testing the limits with her creations, and no one on day one of the three-day-long couture calendar came anywhere near to pushing the envelope as far as Iris van Herpen.
What to think of a halter-dress made from what appeared to be a distended skeleton? Or the shiny black tubes that enveloped another mini-dress? Van Herpen presented old and new work, but it all morphs easily into one collection, the difference lies into the techniques, use of fabrics and themes. But what stays is her impressive dark techno style that’s original, exciting and fresh.
A design made by Iris van Herpen is placed within the exposition as a fountain. The design (A/W 2011) already told a great story on water and now this story is visualized even better.
Klavers van Engelen showed their airy designs, brought to live by small windmills, making the dresses dance with the wind. Their question: “Wanna Dance Amber?”
This week Iris van Herpen once again amazed the international fashion crowd with another great collection. She presented her new series of twelve outfits, for the first time during the Paris Haute Couture Week.
Iris van Herpen was inspired by the increasing digitalization of the world around us. She used the sculptures of American artist Kris Kuksi as an important inspiration and used a very special printing technique for her dresses. The designs were fully printed in 3D, not a single stitch was needed. Iris developed that technique together with architect Daniel Widrig, she used this technique in her previous collections too.
The white, black, grey and beige creations were made out of unconventional material like a mix of metal and silk, burned woven metal and shiny hair threads.
And there were more collaborations… For the shoes of the show Iris worked with Rem. D Koolhaas of United Nude again and she was honored to have British hat designer Stephen Jones working on her hats. They were made out of technological bits and pieces. Remnants of computers and speakers were turned into modern hat pieces….Wow!
Interview met Iris van Herpen over haar collectie die ze tijdens de Amsterdam fashion week showde. De collectie bestond uit tien outfits en was absoluut de moeite waard!
Impressie van de eerste dag AIFW Amsterdam Fashion Week. De opening en shows van Iris van Herpen en Spijkers & Spijkers.
At the Iris van Herpen fashion show we received a goodiebag. It contained the products above, which we rated as follows:
May edition of Nouveau magazine
Juli edition of Marie – Claire
A bottle of Rosemount Chardonnay – 750 ml
Voucher free glass of champagne at the college
Maybeline – Vibrating mascara
PTB – Lip balm
Folder Ernst & Young
Folder Maitre Frederic
Folder 15 % discount at Esqo living
Estimated Value: €20,-
Iris van Herpen started her show with a clip of a naked woman surrounded by splashes of water. That water appeared to be essential in her collection. Her ten looks represented ‘Crystallization’: the process of water turning into crystal.
Iris translated that process by giving water a determined form. Some outfits looked like someone had thrown a bucket of water over a model and time had frozen that water into an outfit. Exactly that opposition between fluid and hard materials was the starting point of the collection. There was also a strong contradiction between wearable and non-wearable items.
‘I’m fascinated by the fact that secret lines are hidden in fully transparent and fluid materials. At the moment this material freezes (when the crystal arises) this comes to life. It’s then that the symmetry and structure underneath become visible’, explains Iris.
Apart from the frozen water items Iris showed several strong handmade designs. Every detail of those outfits was perfection and must have taken hours to make. Yet those are the designs which define Iris as an artist.
One of the looks had a 3D print all over it. It was based on sculptures and made by the famous architect Daniel Widrig. Iris: ‘It took one computer hours and hours to make that print and it costs thousands of dollars, but it looks so good.’ So far Iris is the first fashion designer to work with this kind of 3D print.
Unfortunately Iris only showed ten looks today, but the clothes and the way she presented them made everything worthwhile. All models were filmed while they walked the runway. And as they moved a video was played on the catwalk in which you could see the models walking. ‘The models in the video were enlarged, so people could see the details of the clothes even when they were not sitting front row, says Iris.
The show was great and the reactions of the audience were wild. London is lucky to be able to show Iris’ whole SS2011 collection.