The Gucci-collection for fall 2013 is about smart, wearable, precisely cut style. Designer Frida Giannini went for structured, sculptural lines with pronounced shoulders, either rounded or slightly raised. There were roomy coats and jackets over slim skirts, suits and dresses with body-conscious allure often with V-necklines. This is a powerwoman, especially when she is wearing black (snake) leather. Colors were traditinal autumn-like: moss-green, maroon, russet.
A statement coat might be one of the most important menswear items for winter and for come fall it seems check prints are the way to go. While Miuccia Prada gave us a baby blue table cloth coat, Frida Giannini introduces a slightly similar blue version with a larger check. Followed by beautifully colored woolen coats in mustard, pea green and black. The clothes breathed ‘luxury’, more than ‘trendy’ as they portrayed a modern sixties feeling. Other winter necessities were present too; the bright colored chunky sweaters and slick tuxedos done in winter materials. Pieces most men will be able to pull off, although we assume it might take a while before those tight leave printed pants will run out of stock.
It was a flamboyant, glamorous collection Frida Giannini sent out for Gucci. She was inspired by Richard Avedon and style-icons like Marella Agnelli, Talitha Getty and Gloria Vanderbilt. The colors were vibrant, the silhouette lean and tailored with bold, large scale ruffles. Giannini introduced a new ‘pajama’: a tunic over matching fluid pants. She showed it sometimes with abundant, tiered ruffles running down the sleeves, sometimes with cutout backs. The unfussy femininity made for a bridge between sportswear and a suit. Giannini diversified a bit with a python jacquard and a giant sea anemone print.
Gucci’s creative director Frida Giannini used a rich and vivid Mediterranean color palette for her youthful tailoring and retro-style holiday clothes.
What to think of head-to-toe green, watermelon and cobalt ? It sounds screaming loud, but in real they were rendered in dry, crisp fabrics like raffia, washed cotton and cotton jersey. Giannini embraced monochromatic dressing with sharp, slim suits or sweater-pant combos in shades like rust or sky blue, but she also presented tailored blazers, often double-breasted, over slim white chinos. Every look was finished with the house’s iconic horse-bit loafers, celebrating their 60th birthday next year.
In a palette of purple, navy, forest green, dark brown and black Frida Giannini presented a dark, romantic Gucci collection. She called it modern day romanticism, wit a touch of military, dandy and elegance. There were flat heeled riding boots, wide cut, cropped jackets with gold buttons and softly belted velvet smoking jackets. There was more velvet in the appliqué flowers on translucent chiffon and lace blouses. Skirts had a split in the back, riding trousers flounced wide over each thigh and the full lengtht column dresses were shiny and glittering. Giannini focused on day clothes worn in texturally intense layerings. It sometimes reminded of good old Yves St. Laurent.
The evening-gowns were spectacular, and aimed at the coming next Oscar red-carpet moment.
Well it was very obvious that the Gucci-collection fw2012 is about romance and decadence. 19th century bohemian men played a major role in this mix of flower prints, velvets, jacquards and tapestry. The designer played with proportions putting big overcoats over chunky crew necks and cardigans over skinny trousers and riding boots. Army and navy-inspirations were also weaved into this collection.
The fashioncircus has moved from London to Milan. Gucci was the first show where the tribes gathered again. Models, buyers, photographers, editors and fashion victims.
From the flowing, moody jewel-colored Seventies style to a more constructed, hard and geometric jazzy style – that’s the turn Gucci-designer Frida Giannini took this season. And this anniversary-collection looks quite different. Polished as ever, but with jazzy influences (flapper-dresses), references from the Twenties and Thirties, Louise Brooks, African Art and Man Ray. But also the geometric lines of the art deco style the American way – as in the Chrysler building – and the metallic surfaces. Giannini herself said in the show-notes she wanted to show an optical side of femininity, a sculptural glamor.
Well, glamorous it was, and polished but somehow it lacked a certain softness and sensuality. Maybe it’s because of the mix of equestrian elements like striped, double-breasted jockey-jackets, the green/ocre/white and black. Or the straight lines and hard metallics.
Hopefully we’ll find more of Gucci’s sensual warmth in the museum that’s soon to be opened in Florence.
According to WWD Gucci’s new collection was inspired by a gentlemen’s club. “But a very relaxed one with a sporty attitude,” creative director Frida Giannini told WWD backstage before the show.
The inspiration was visible in the checked (hounds tooth, Prince of Wales and Glen plaid checks) suits, the classic cardigans and the bow ties. It was also in the absence of socks and ties, which you wouldn’t necessarily miss if Giannini hadn’t said anything.
Like the boys at Calvin Klein and Bikkembergs The guys from Gucci’s club are sporty types too, we could tell by the leather trim on a red coat and the large pockets on some of the shorter jackets. Yet unlike many other menswear brands we saw this week Giannini didn’t go with the loose, relaxed silhouette. Her designs stayed classic and tailored; probably just how the English gentleman likes it.
Gucci held on to the bright colors for winter, yet this time the shades were a little bit warmer (ranging from blue and rust to burgundy and petrol green) and Frida Giannini added some grey and black.
The show had a great seventies vibe. Flared pants, flared coats and long, loose dresses. Of course Frida added her own special Gucci Glamour showing high slits, pencil skirts made of snakeskin and patent leather.
Though some items would look wrong on a hanger; the styling of the show made it all still sophisticated. The colorful hats, small belts and the fur stoles were some nice details. The large sunglasses and eye catching flowers at the end might have been a little over the top. But hey, Gucci girls usually love that.