Riccardo Tisci’s fall winter 2012 collection focused again at his signature clothes: sweatshirts, T-shirts, leggings and kilts. And again prominent prints and graphic elements, like stars and stripes.
The tailoring was black and red and chic. The designer also played with trompe-l’oeil layers, putting pea coat-like vests over leather jackets or wool topcoats. And the show ended with sparkles. The tops of white shirts twinkled with crystals, while black enamel stars came out over the shoulders of black sweaters.
His prints of flowers and barking dogs were all over streetfashion during the last fashionweeks, and Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy is surely held responsible for the fact that fashion moved into a print-loving direction. But after two seasons of prints and black, the designer took the undersea world as his inspiration.
Tisci expressed in his show notes a desire to explore “a more romantic side….The general attitude is softer.” So the powdery colors, undulating peplums and sheer fabrics were indeed unmistakably feminine.
The tailoring was strong, innovative and varied. Tightfitted jackets with jabots swayed like seaweed. Skirts had swooping hems or were scooped open.
Starting in white the monochromatic ensembles became glossier, more mermaidlike, with leather slashed into fish scales and head-to-toe silver sequins.
Again Riccardo Tisci was inro prints. After the dogs, the pin-ups and black panthers of this winter, he presented a new view on the Hawaian print in his ss2012 collection for Givenchy. And in a season where the Versace-esque print is making a come back it didn’t look weird at all. Actually, it looked beautiful in a streetwise way. His kaleidoscopic arrangements of bird-of-paradise flowers reminded us of eighties Miami as did the sweet colors with a contrasting role for green.
It certainly will find his way to the copycats, since the print appeared on everything from suits to sweatshirts, basketball jerseys and Bermudas. He also continued to push his favorite mix of XL sportswear with kilts, mostly in all white.
The Givenchy fall-collection was tacky, sexy, mature and elegant at the same time. The black panther played a major role in the collection as it appeared in print, hats and cut outs. It felt unexpected and striking but also uncomfortable, but in a sens it was intriguing too. It was a vibrant print, the black, gold and deep violet gave it a rich character – they sometimes morphed into a baroque print.
The clothes however were rather classic and feminine: pencil skirts, blazers and buttoned-up shirts done in shiny black silk, leather and velvet. It was the way they were presented plus the panther that gave it all a kinky edge. A variation on the strong silhouette were the sheer, narrow skirts worn under ruffled minis. Often the look was finished with a black fur or leather baseball jacket. Beautiful, feminine pieces were the blouses done in pink embroidery and a cropped sweater in fluffy yellow mohair.
Givenchy’s catwalk show started 90 minutes late, due to a power failure. Yet Riccardo Tisci’s new collection was worth the wait. It, once again, felt very Gothic with lottts of black and a very awkward Rottweiler print that kept on popping up.
He showed many different versions of a wide short, worn with laced boots, which we doubt many men will want to wear. Rottweiler printed sweaters were combined with checked blouses and many of the jackets had black leather part.
Besides all the black Tisci also introduced some beige-colored looks and he ended with several tuxedos. All worn by male models sporting very big geek glasses, hats that looked like kettle turned upside down and tough belts.
We were also delighted to see three girls walking the show in between all the diverse group of men. Especially since two of them, Daphne Groeneveld (who is in the new Givenchy campaign) and Saskia de Brauw, are Dutch. Great job girls!
Mert & Marcus shot her together with albino model Stephen Thompson.
For Daphne this is her second big ad campaign. This year she was also featured in a MiuMiu campaign with three other models.
The Givenchy collection Riccardo Tisci presented on Sunday was a tough one. There were some daring outfits there, which made us think ‘dark’, ‘punk’ and ‘techno’.
Tisci used photographer Robert Mapplethorpe as his inspiration, which explains all the black and white we saw. There were a lot of sleeveless statement jackets, all matched with long sheer black pieces of fabric. The punk feeling came from the many zippers (across waistlines, sleeves and pants) Tisci used.
Lea T, the transsexual model. which over the past few months caused some commotion, being in the Givenchy ads and all, was there too. She walked the show alongside many new faces like Saskia de Brauw and Pauline Van der Cruysse.
Something we didn’t expect to see at Givenchy was the leopard print. After some years full of animal printed fashion the leopard print was finally on its return, yet now it seems Tisci brought it back to life. The Givenchy customer probably won’t mind. She’s bound to love every single look of this collection.
Riccardo Tisci proved it is possible to translate a ski & scuba-theme into a dark, mysterious collection. There were some tight, cheerful knits with a snowpattern and neoprene pants, but it never got too sporty. The slim pants and skirts, unzipped and unfurled at the waist, referenced scuba gear for some, Seventies ski outfits for others.
It was just another collection with Tisci’s signature tailoring: sharp coats, tuxedo suits, and lean black pants. Red glitter gloves, bags and lips accompanied the clothes, as did sexy scarlet, black and nude lace. One of the best looks were the black leather pieces — mini slips and skirts — mixed with lace.
What would Jesus wear nowadays? If he shopped at Givenchy, he’d wear sandals, black stockings, a kilt, shorts and a gold crown of thorns necklace. The models at Givenchy looked like modern monks in their black and white clothes, black sandals (sometimes with, ugh, black shiny stockings), high collars and long coats. No laughs, no fun – this was serious man! But without all the fuzz, the basic collection is about a suit, a puffy jacket, a kilt, a white shirt and a long coat. Enough to mix endlessly.
Although you might expect bright colors for the summer-season, many designers chose black and white as their main colors. There were lots of outfits in full black or white, but also good combinations as well.
Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester and the two Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watanabe didn’t use any color in their shows at all. Their designs were all in black, white and some hues of grey. Rick Owens’ designs stood out because they were very pointy. Watanabe’s clothes had black and white checks that matched with the checked shoes.
Givenchy showed some black and white in his renewing geometricaly shaped outfits. Jill Stuart made a few pairs of extraordinary black and white leggings. At the Moschino fashion show modern white blouses were mixed with black bows.
(Tess van Daelen)