The Givenchy collection Riccardo Tisci presented on Sunday was a tough one. There were some daring outfits there, which made us think ‘dark’, ‘punk’ and ‘techno’.
Tisci used photographer Robert Mapplethorpe as his inspiration, which explains all the black and white we saw. There were a lot of sleeveless statement jackets, all matched with long sheer black pieces of fabric. The punk feeling came from the many zippers (across waistlines, sleeves and pants) Tisci used.
Lea T, the transsexual model. which over the past few months caused some commotion, being in the Givenchy ads and all, was there too. She walked the show alongside many new faces like Saskia de Brauw and Pauline Van der Cruysse.
Something we didn’t expect to see at Givenchy was the leopard print. After some years full of animal printed fashion the leopard print was finally on its return, yet now it seems Tisci brought it back to life. The Givenchy customer probably won’t mind. She’s bound to love every single look of this collection.
Riccardo Tisci proved it is possible to translate a ski & scuba-theme into a dark, mysterious collection. There were some tight, cheerful knits with a snowpattern and neoprene pants, but it never got too sporty. The slim pants and skirts, unzipped and unfurled at the waist, referenced scuba gear for some, Seventies ski outfits for others.
It was just another collection with Tisci’s signature tailoring: sharp coats, tuxedo suits, and lean black pants. Red glitter gloves, bags and lips accompanied the clothes, as did sexy scarlet, black and nude lace. One of the best looks were the black leather pieces — mini slips and skirts — mixed with lace.
What would Jesus wear nowadays? If he shopped at Givenchy, he’d wear sandals, black stockings, a kilt, shorts and a gold crown of thorns necklace. The models at Givenchy looked like modern monks in their black and white clothes, black sandals (sometimes with, ugh, black shiny stockings), high collars and long coats. No laughs, no fun – this was serious man! But without all the fuzz, the basic collection is about a suit, a puffy jacket, a kilt, a white shirt and a long coat. Enough to mix endlessly.
Although you might expect bright colors for the summer-season, many designers chose black and white as their main colors. There were lots of outfits in full black or white, but also good combinations as well.
Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester and the two Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watanabe didn’t use any color in their shows at all. Their designs were all in black, white and some hues of grey. Rick Owens’ designs stood out because they were very pointy. Watanabe’s clothes had black and white checks that matched with the checked shoes.
Givenchy showed some black and white in his renewing geometricaly shaped outfits. Jill Stuart made a few pairs of extraordinary black and white leggings. At the Moschino fashion show modern white blouses were mixed with black bows.
(Tess van Daelen)
For some models walking the runway was a tough job in the past fashion weeks. Of course the shoes were to blame. Not only were they high as ever, they also had the craziest shapes. They seemd somewhat inspired by clogs and that made them look rather clumsy. The most outstanding examples of this ‘clog-shoe’ were those of Alexander McQueen. He showed some great fashion forward ones, which were no less than twelve inches high. With reptile prints they looked futuristic and animalistic at the same time. Passing by to the beat of Lady Gaga’s new song they indeed looked rather Gaga to us. Yet they might become a huge hit. At least McQueen wasn’t the only designer with clog-shoes in his show. Celine, Dior, DSquared, Givenchy, Bottega Veneta and Ferré showed some clog-variations as well. And not to forget Louis Vuitton and Chanel. Their Swedish clog-like shoes will probably become the most copied of all next spring. (Tess van Daelen)
In Riccardo Tisci’s collection for Givenchy his graphic prints were perfection. He started the show with triangular shapes and cut-outs and horizontal lines. Halfway the collection the audience was blown away when he introduced his print for spring 2010. It had zigzag patterns combined with lines and curves. Tisci used it in many of his designs and showed it in three different natural shades. Even some shoes with platform wedges had the detailed print all over them. Apart from the graphic print some of Tisci’s highlights were a few great drop-crotch harem pants, multi-layered skirts, loose-fitting sleeves and dresses with ruffles in all the right places. He also gave the shoulders some extra attention by adorning and raising them. Puffy collars were worn on top of Roman draped ultra-light dresses. It’s for sure that this Givenchy collection will do well in stores. So we will certainly see its graphic prints passing by next spring. (Tess van Daelen)
Even when he’s designing haute couture Riccardo Tisci moves between strict-chic and otherworldly, goddesslike creatures living in his fantasyworld. This season it looked like mix of Morocco, Berber tribes-people and other Middle Eastern influences. The silhouette was tailored with padded shoulders and focus at the waist, fabrics moved from velvet to leather and golden embroidery. There were hoods and veils, corsets and drapes – and it all looked very modern.
It was a little sad for Riccardo Tisci. The day he presented his menswear collection for Givenchy Michael Jackson’s death was all over the news. And Tisci just finished the costumes for Jackson’s new tour. The superstar found out about Tisci through the pieces of Givenchy’s womenswear he’d been wearing. The collaboration inspired the gold-star studded tunics and hoodies Tisci showed. But they did not make the collection, it was the mix of North African inspired, layered active wear. He used high tech fabrics and mosaic-like prints and created his own version of a sports uniform.