Trend Report FW2010: add an extra layer

Though the minimalistic look is a big trend this fall, layering is the best way to dress yourself throughout the winter. Just put on a nice comfortable outfit and then start adding the extra layers. First a warm cosy vest, then a coat, a big knitted scarf and finally something to keep your head warm.

Many designers opted for the layered look. More than often it made the models look like wandering nomads, but in the end it made for a cool fall look.

The poncho’s and capes, that are hot right now, perfectly fit with the layered look. And a big chunky scarf will not go to waste this winter. If you’re not wearing it around your neck, you can always put it on your head like Haider Ackermann en Issey Miyake did in their shows.

An extra tip: if you’re going for the more is more look, don’t be afraid of clashing prints, materials or colors. The more diverse the pieces you’re wearing are, the better.

Quoc Thang Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Quoc Thang’s new collection ‘Het moment voorbij’ was all about freedom. The designer translated that feeling through the style of a woodcutter. The collection was very outdoor; rough materials like wooll and cotton mixed with polyester and nylon.

The male models walked in overalls, raincoats and checked tuniques (these checks were especially designed for this collection and were made out of shields with two crossing bows). They carried backpacks and wore shoes by Timberland, the sponsor of the show. They looked cool, but their heads were all wet & sweaty.

The jacket had a central position in this collection; blazers, parka’s and tops that felt like coats were the eye-catchers of the show.

Quoc Thang
Quoc Thang (1979) graduated in 2005 at the Rietveld academy in Amsterdam. He then organized several projects in Berlijn en Parijs. In 2009 he launched his collection under his own name.

Marloes Blaas Catwalk Fashion Show SS2010

Like Franciscus van der Meer, Marloes Blaas also used the second World War as an inspiration. She drew much inspiration from peasant life and the atmosphere surrounding the liberation of that war.

We saw an army green uniform and a thick black leather top which looked very powerful. There were tough shorts with extra pockets and well tailored jackets. On the other hand Marloes opted for airy fabrics and feminine faded prints. So there were some contradictions in this collection.

We have to say the army outfits looked slightly stronger than the elegant, airy items. The prints looked great, yet the army clothes looked more outspoken and different from what we’ve seen before.

Oda Pausma Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

‘Hobohemian Heaven’ was the title of Oda Pausma’s collection, she presented on Thursday. It was based on the fusion of two worlds: poetical and rebellion. Imagine live under the roof of the boheme, artists haven, the Chelsea Hotel New York of the seventies….

Jiska van Rossum Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Designer Jiska van Rossum presented her collection ‘Adorned in Elegance’ this week. Like in al her clothes sensuality and temptation were important aspects of her menswear clothes.

Fashion Focus: all about Ann Demeulemeester

Name of the brand: Ann Demeulemeester

Name(s ) of the designer(s):  Ann Demeulemeester

About the designer(s): Ann Demeulemeester (1959) was born in Belgium. She studied at the Royal academy of fine arts in Antwerp and graduated in 1981. She is now a world-renowned fashion designer. She is married to fashion photographer Patrick Robyn.

Start of the brand: 1984

First collection: 1985
Breakthrough: 1986; Ann Demeulemeester then shows her collection in London. She quickly become famous outside of Belgium. Ann is seen as one of the ‘Antwerpse zes’, a group of influential fashion designers who graduated at the Royal Academy of Antwerp in the eighties (including Dries van Noten en Walter van Beirendonck).

The Ann Demeulemeester woman: is not a specific type of woman. Ann said: ‘People can mix and match and adjust the clothes to fit into their lives. I don’t know exactly who will end up wearing my clothes. It’s like creating a present for an anonymous person.’ Ann does say the women she designs for have a strong personality.

Ann Demeulemeester women: Sarah Jessica Parker, Nicole Kidman, Nicole Richie

The clothes are: never ‘trendy’, their focus is on shape and structure. Ann designs with her feelings and uses lots of black in her clothes.

Type of clothes: outspoken, original, comfortable.

Signature: black designs in outstanding shapes

Collaborations: with Rodney Graham (1992), Patti Smith (1999), Steven Klein (2004)

Awards: Golden Spindle (1982), Culture Award (1996)

Quotes:

• ‘The idea that garments are alive is a big inspiration. I want to fill them with soul.’
• ‘I don’t travel’
• ‘I never planned ahead. I just go from one season to the next. If I ever feel like I’ve told my story in this medium, it’ll be time to move on to another.’

Extra:

• Ann has been designing jewellery and furniture as well. She even won some prices with that.
• In the beginning Mugler, Montana, and Versace were Ann’s inspiration
• Since 1996 Ann also designs men’s clothes.
• Ann and her husband Patrick have been together since Ann was seventeen.
• Regardless of the financial crise Ann Demeulemeester has sold more than ever.
• Especially Ann’s laced up boots were a bit hit.

Streetstyle vs. Catwalk fashion

Each fashion season we all get very much inspired by the collections presented on the catwalk. After New York, London, Milan and Paris we have new creative ideas and we have picked up the trends we will probably be wearing a season later. So there’s no doubt fashion designers create trends or at least a certain style.

Yet it’s also true that a big part of  fashion starts on the street. What people wear in their daily lives is a starting point for fashion too. Whether it’s your grandma walking her dog in a floral printed skirt, your father in one of his suits or your neighbour is a pair of old school jeans. Every kind of streetwear can be the beginning of a fashion trend.

During the fashion weeks our team always spots the most fashionable people outside the fashion shows. They wear clothes not everyone dares to wear. Their streetstyle is often bright-colored, crazy-shaped and remarkably printed. Not to mention their shoes and accessories.

To show you that streetwear can be an inspiration for fashion designers we selected six outfits that were seen in the streets as well as on the runway.

The fashion we’re gonna see this summer is very lady-like and romantic. Pastel shades and ruffles therefore are unmissable in your summer wardrobe. In need of inspiration? The Valentino show has some great ruffle examples.

Victoria Beckham was one of the first who started wearing bleached denim again last year. And it proves she was right about this denim trend.

Milla Jovovich ones again showed the popularity of the navy trend. Anna dello Russo worked a splendid (Balmain) jacket with silver embellishments (as seen at Anna Sui). And one of the girls we spotted on the street, showed she had guts with a pair of checked pants (which might just be inspired by the Watanabe show that was full of the black and white checked print).

And by the way… Did you know that olive green (Celine) can look this great?

Streetstyle vs. Catwalk fashion

Each fashion season we all get very much inspired by the collections presented on the catwalk. After New York, London, Milan and Paris we have new creative ideas and we have picked up the trends we will probably be wearing a season later. So there’s no doubt fashion designers create trends or at least a certain style.

Yet it’s also true that a big part of  fashion starts on the street. What people wear in their daily lives is a starting point for fashion too. Whether it’s your grandma walking her dog in a floral printed skirt, your father in one of his suits or your neighbour is a pair of old school jeans. Every kind of streetwear can be the beginning of a fashion trend.

During the fashion weeks our team always spots the most fashionable people outside the fashion shows. They wear clothes not everyone dares to wear. Their streetstyle is often bright-colored, crazy-shaped and remarkably printed. Not to mention their shoes and accessories.

To show you that streetwear can be an inspiration for fashion designers we selected six outfits that were seen in the streets as well as on the runway.

The navy theme was a big inspiration for catwalk fashion and streetstyle. Next to the blue and white we could spot a lot of red and white stripes. Anna Sui used the Tartan check in one of her outfits; a comparable blue check could be seen on the streets. For the summer of 2010 Iceberg and Jeremy Scott were inspired by Mickey Mouse (mostly his ears). One of the fashionista’s we spotted also proved to be a fan of the Disney character. And if you are planning to buy any fur these season, it seems hairy blue is the style you should be going for….

The most Gaga-worthy outfits for SS2010

There’s no doubt Lady Gaga’s success has something to do with the way she dresses. From day one she has looked out of the ordinary with her structured creations, body-exposing outfits and crazy headgear. She has been wearing those extreme designer outfits no one dares to wear in public and therefore she’s always in the news…

We’ve seen Lady Gaga in Armani prive, Gareth Pugh, Jeremy Scott, Chanel and Hussein Chalayan to name a few. The pop-diva has also worn some Viktor & Rolf creations before. The Dutch designers even got to make an outfit for Gaga’s video Telephone. But apart from all those designs, we think there are many more looks that would get Lady Gaga’s approval.

Out of all the spring/summer fashion shows we selected the most Gaga-worthy outfits. Those pieces mostly have crazy shapes, they show a lot of skin and several times they go with an eye-catching headpiece.

We selected multiple black body-revealing dresses with cut-outs, wholes and tears all over them (Asish, Byblos, Julian Macdonald, Mark Fast).

We picked out over the top hats from Aguggini (large with zebra-print), Jean Paul Gaultier (blue with Napoleon shape), Givenchy (shape of a lamp shade) and Watanabe (strange kind of turban).

We chose for two designs with accentuated shoulders. At Ilincic the shoulders were huge and made out of feathers, at Todd Lynn they resembled shark fins.

The opted for the Giles dress because of the big spiders and we picked Julian Macdonald’s dress because of the scales. Alexander McQueen’s outfits need no explanation; Gaga has already worn one of those (incl. the crazy shoes) in her video Bad Romance and we think Gaga would actually love to wear all of his designs.

Unfortunately Gaga’s on-and-off boyfriend Matthew Williamson didn’t design anything kinky that that would suit her. Yet we think there’s more than enough to choose from for the 23-year old singer. And if she doesn’t find the right outfit, she can always ask a designer to make one for her. Cause designers understand that Lady Gaga wearing one of your outfits is good publicity and they’ll do anything to make that happen.