On thursday night, right after Topshop was opened in Amsterdam, Arnhem became the fashion hotspot again. There the fashion crowd (and many moms, dads, brothers, sisters and friends) gathered for the graduation show (one of a total of 5 shows!!) of 22 ArtEZ students. In a warm, sold out and fully packed show area, which is part of the Arnhem Mode Biënnale, we witnessed one and a half hour of some great ArtEZ fashion.
The collections of all 22 students couldn’t be more diverse. From childrenswear (Cleome Clements) to minimalistic (Sanne Schepers)- and survival (Jarwo Gibson) wear, from skinhead styles (Tom Nijhuis) to asymmetric items (AnneMarie Keizers) and from on trend fashion (Zonia van Uden) to over the top, structured designs (Annie Bosman); a perfect mix of signatures and styles.
ArtEZ seemed especially proud of talents like Linda de Jong, Anne Bosman (structured menswear), Mattia Akkermans (bright designs, crazy styling), Magnus Dekker (a collection made out of flags) and Sanne Schepers.
Linda de Jong presented some extraordinary selfmade fabrics. She showed a lot of knitwear and even used plastic in some of her Chanel-inspired designs.
Another great collection was made by Sanna Schepers. Sanne showed skirts and tops, which were scecretly attached to each other. Her designs looked simple, but in fact were made out of some difficult constructions.
A graduation student who really stood out too is William Tan. His designs (he showed so many looks) were perfectly tailored and his prints were stunning.
All these students proved they have a clear vision of their own style and potential. They also know how to turn 6 or 7 looks into a collection, which not everyone can.
ArtEZ received a Grand Seigneur this month; a corpus award for people/companies in the fashion industry and judging from some of the great collections we saw this award was well deserved.
Check out the gallery below.
By Ivo Wiermans
Lichting 2009 presented the best of each of the 7 Dutch fashion academies: Nathanya Zwart, Erna Einarsdottir, Ratna Ho, Ireneo Ciammella, Kai Salomon, malousebastiaan, Joran de Kok, Bregje Cox, Liesbeth van Gemeren, Aida Saracini, Ann Boogaerts, Marina Krunic, Twan Meijerink and Manon Boertien. Ann Boogaerts won the G-Star Raw Talent Award, a price worth 10.000 euro.
Lichting 2009 turned out to be one of the most spectacular catwalk shows during this season’s Amsterdam Fashion Week. Lichting is a unique platform founded to fill the gap between Dutch fashion academies’ most promising students and the professional fashion industry.
This season’s Lichting show covered the collections of 14 students, 2 of every fashion academy and was sponsored by G-Star Raw. The best designer won a price worth 10.000 euros and a trip to G-Star’s presentation at NYC Fashion Week. Ann Boogaerts of ArteZ won the G-Star Raw Talent Award.
A panel, consisting 4 of Europe’s most important fashion professionals (Wendy Dagworthy, co-founder of London Fashion Week, Garance Doré, writer and photographer, Susanna Lau, editor of Dazed & Confused and Lucas Ossendrijver, designer for Lanvin Homme) chose Boogaarts as best young designer.
All collections captured of-the-moment elements in global fashion. Like the pastel color gradients and oversized pieces with focus on shape. Also deconstruction, showed by studded and bead-covered outfits. Some collections looked like chaotic outfits made from ripped, cut and draped materials.
The best collections were the ones that were least on-fashion, showing something new. Like Ratna Ho’s collection, inspired by the ugliness of tribal tattoos, which resulted in curvy pantyhoses, pleated skirts and tops made of see-through materials. Designer-duo Malousebastiaan chose to use a round shape which doesn’t have a start or finishing point. Round curves were translated into blown-up silhouettes and dresses looked like they were grown organically.
Bregje Cox was inspired by big cities’ super structures and rare etnical images. Cut-open dresses and big mirror elements looked like Asian symbols or an aerial road map.
Manon Boertien used her positive memories of religion and spirituality and sunlight reflecting crystals as inspiration. The outfits in bold shapes and facet-like prints looked truly happy and positive.
Although each member of the panel praised the collections for their high quality, young Belgian designer Ann Boogaerts from ArtEZ was happy to receive the award. Her collection was inspired by Belgian royalty and Dutch artists like Mondrian. There were beautiful geometrical shaped dresses in bright colors like yellow and red. Fine embroidery and stylish hair and shoes made the outfits look royal-worthy. The Dutch national anthem played during the show. Boogaerts seemed to be proud of her being a young Dutch designer.
Winner of the G-Star Raw Denim Award Anneloes van Osselaer.