Ann Demeulemeester had an extra feminine touch this week. Besides long tops and dramatic floor length coats models wore bowler hats with netting and seemed to wear make-up. Done is her regular color palette of blacks and whites her full length sweaters, embroidered jackets and pants tucked into lace up boots almost felt like a series of Amish Ann-designs. They didn’t appear like the most fun people to hang out with, yet dressed in such great layered pieces the mysterious models looked interesting enough to evoke a conversation.
Please enjoy the pictures for now. Our review will follow shortly.
This time Ann Demeulemeester – the Belgian queen of black – wanrted to prove she can use color too in her collections. Her show opened with deep-wine purples and ended with orange and sea blue.
She may have changed her color palette, but her man stays the same: romantic and a loner. Some oriental elements resonated in this collection, like the side-tied silk kimono tops bubbling out from beneath jackets, trailing sashes behind. Demeulemeester made it her own by undercutting preciousness with ease. She loosened her stricter silhouette with wide, soft pants, some printed with casual stripes or graphic roses.
The models at Ann Demeulemeester’s show wore a wild crown of hair, blades and black feathers. They had long leather gloves on their arms and black leather pants that melted into long boots. There was lots of black leather and velvet, but more inbteresting was the inky, midnight blue color. The collection had powerful outerwear and dark elegant dresses — worked in variations and fabrics rich with dimension. Tailored jackets and trenches came cut up into asymmetrical folds with sculpted collars. Long, lean dresses were simple aside from a single drape at the neckline or back. This was surely a tough, graceful women.
Ann Demeulemeester introduced a new silhouette with new proportions for men. Long shirts, long coats and long wollen jumpers all felt very ‘dressy’. Combined with long boots it made the models look static and strong.
Luckily there was some room for fun as well. Ann came up with some kind of tribal, batik print and used degrade designs throughout the whole collection. The mostly came in hun significant shades, black, grey and white. Yet also a touch of red and blue was added in the mix.
Today Ann Demeulemeester presented us with some witches. All of them were dressed in black, white or a mix of both. Half of them had leather floppy hats on, the other half wore their hair stuck to their heads in a creepy kind of way, like they’d just crawled out of a swamp.
Yet no matter how Gothic and spooky their appearances looked, there was still a beautiful side to the collection. These were good witches in airy, sheer designs with their boobs on display. They showed their love for long silhouettes, tassels floral details, loose knitwear and the ‘color’ black.
Like a true Demeulemeester collection there was not a real color in sight. Yet those cream and white shades and the degrade pieces made sure there was enough variation.
Many fashion fans already claimed this collection as the best of the season and we must agree. Even without the bright shades, the pastels, the floral prints, the bikini’s and the flirty dresses Ann Demeulemeester showed a killer spring collection.
Watch the video of the show below
Almost entirely black. Ann Demeulemeester sticked to her own language, and let only a little bit of red and blue speak for itself – mixed with black that is. It was dark, goth and tough yet beautiful, romantic and fragile/edgy at the same time.
The Belgian designer strated with aggressively tailored looks, some cut from hard leathers, and all laced with loose strips trailing in the back. But the softer, gentler and more feminine side of the collection showed up with beaded fringed jacket and dresses. Dresses were softly draped. Feathers decorated most of the oufits, which gave it a more warrior-look: Demeulemeester stuck raven-black feathers into wide cartridge-pleated straps, like bullet belts.
It was a romantic and gently deconstructed collection of Ann Demeulemeester with hints of antique uniforms. The designer gave the fronts of topcoats, jackets and waistcoats a used and beaten look, and most of the jackets peeled open in flaps at the waist. She also bleached fabrics to make ghostly patterns, sometimes sprinkled across a suit like a constellation. Pops of blue, red, yellow or orange broke the darkness, Demeulemeester used the colors for tops or they peeped out from under sheer black layers. The high, black ridingboots and leather gloves gave the models the look of a 17th century landlord, elegant, tough and a bit nostalgic
The standing ovation from Patti Smith was well deserved.
Black and white. Those were the shades Ann Demeulemeester used for her latest menswear collection. Thin models with remarkable bone structure and slick combed back hair showed her new creations. The designs were somewhat futuristic and covered up the biggest part of the models bodies.
The first half of the collection everything was white. The small pants, the suits with standing collars, the jackets and the wellies. With the last white outfit the showed seemd to be over. Yet a second show started when the first black outfit appeared. The second half of the collection thus was black and in stead of the white cotton Demeulemeester used a lot of black leather.
The suits’ collars were often the eye-catchers of the designs. They were asymmetrical of were decorated with extra buttons, belts and even ruffles.
Actually the collection was a lot of what you would expect from Ann Demeulemeester. The clothes weren’t trendy, they were well structured and many looks were totally black.
Name of the brand: Ann Demeulemeester
Name(s ) of the designer(s): Ann Demeulemeester
About the designer(s): Ann Demeulemeester (1959) was born in Belgium. She studied at the Royal academy of fine arts in Antwerp and graduated in 1981. She is now a world-renowned fashion designer. She is married to fashion photographer Patrick Robyn.
Start of the brand: 1984
First collection: 1985
Breakthrough: 1986; Ann Demeulemeester then shows her collection in London. She quickly become famous outside of Belgium. Ann is seen as one of the ‘Antwerpse zes’, a group of influential fashion designers who graduated at the Royal Academy of Antwerp in the eighties (including Dries van Noten en Walter van Beirendonck).
The Ann Demeulemeester woman: is not a specific type of woman. Ann said: ‘People can mix and match and adjust the clothes to fit into their lives. I don’t know exactly who will end up wearing my clothes. It’s like creating a present for an anonymous person.’ Ann does say the women she designs for have a strong personality.
Ann Demeulemeester women: Sarah Jessica Parker, Nicole Kidman, Nicole Richie
The clothes are: never ‘trendy’, their focus is on shape and structure. Ann designs with her feelings and uses lots of black in her clothes.
Type of clothes: outspoken, original, comfortable.
Signature: black designs in outstanding shapes
Collaborations: with Rodney Graham (1992), Patti Smith (1999), Steven Klein (2004)
Awards: Golden Spindle (1982), Culture Award (1996)
- ‘The idea that garments are alive is a big inspiration. I want to fill them with soul.’
- ‘I don’t travel’
- ‘I never planned ahead. I just go from one season to the next. If I ever feel like I’ve told my story in this medium, it’ll be time to move on to another.’
- Ann has been designing jewellery and furniture as well. She even won some prices with that.
- In the beginning Mugler, Montana, and Versace were Ann’s inspiration
- Since 1996 Ann also designs men’s clothes.
- Ann and her husband Patrick have been together since Ann was seventeen.
- Regardless of the financial crise Ann Demeulemeester has sold more than ever.
- Especially Ann’s laced up boots were a bit hit.