For the very first time Individuals by AMFI, a collection designed by student, will have the honor of opening Amsterdam Fashion Week. We caught up with Peter Leferink, Principal Design Lecturer at AMFI and creative Manager of Individuals, to talk about the design process, the collection and the success of Individuals.
AMFI’s Individuals project is a 6 month minor that BA students at AMFI can take during their third or at the beginning of their fourth and final year. A total of around 24 – 30 students from the 3 different departments Fashion & Design, Fashion & Management and Fashion & Branding together design, produce and deliver to retail a collection for the school’s label Individuals.
Why is it important that Individuals gives a show during Amsterdam Fashion Week?
“First of all it is a big honor. For the students a show at the end of their period with Individuals. Those 12 minutes of fame are quite fundamental to the process. Showing in a professional environment like AFW gives the students such a boost. This year we were asked to open the fashion week, which is the ultimate moment and compliment. It means people take us seriously and appreciate what we do with our students. To me personally it means a lot. The fact that our show is held in the Gashouder is extra special too; when I graduated from the C Montaigne Academy in 1994 with a small group of students we rented the same Gashouder for our show. At that time we felt it was the coolest spot in Amsterdam, I believe we had to pay 400 Gulden for it. Being able to see our students shine there as well makes it very special.”
What is the most important aspect of holding a show?
“If you bring it down to the basics a show is a form of PR. You want to reach the press, the retailers and your audience. Yet as a school we believe there a more platforms on which you can show your collections and creativity. There is lots of new media via which you can reach your audience quickly and effectively. But, to be honest, for a lot of students a catwalkshow is the ultimate highlight; the spotlights, the people, the camera’s clicking and the feeling that comes with such a live event. It gives them such excitement, which is hard to match. Therefore I feel catwalkshows will always be there, even though lots of new platform (digital or non digital) will be introduced.”
How did it happen that Individuals is opening Amsterdam Fashion Week?
“We have been showing, with smaller and larger shows, during Amsterdam Fashion Week since the start. This definitely is the icing on the cake for AMFI and Individuals. Especially since around 800 extra young people, students and teachers will be able to see the show through live stream, thanks to Vodafone. I’m very excited how it will all turn out, but I am sure it will be a great happening.”
What part of the collection will eventually be sold?
“It’s hard to put that in percentages, since it depends on the styling of the show, which is planned for the second week of January. We always create Production Pieces, which retailers can buy and Unique Pieces (for the catwalk and photoshoots). Eventually the Production Pieces will be sold in a total of 10 boutiques ranging from high end casual to designer/luxury across the Netherlands.”
Is the collection sold in your own AMFI store as well?
“The Inviduals sales to retailers is organized via our By Amfi store. Every season we change the store in a way that it matches perfectly with the collection and invite our retailers there. After a period of about three weeks the store becomes a By Amfi store again; a very pleasant and dynamic collaboration.”
One of the design students spoke to us about inspiration, colors and materials
What was the inspiration for the upcoming collection?
“We were inspired by the current state of the world. We provide a contemporary solution for how to deal and live within it, partly inspired by Darwin’s theory of survival of the fittest. We draw the line. We tell the story of the Neo-Pioneer who dares to settle within the unsettled. For fall/winter 2013/2014 we’ve communicated it like this
A multitude of choices has resulted in an inability to move forward in the world. The time has come to confidently step forward and set the underlying tone for this generation. Armed with a desire for progress, we draw the line in order to create an enhanced state of protection. We attract because we dare. We survive because we protect. We are an energy to be reckoned with. We are the Neo-Pioneers and ELEMENT is the key to our survival.
This collection boldly draws the line by settling within the unsettled. An action towards survival defined by a magnetic attraction of angular and curved shapes. A mix of unconventional fabrics sculpts this modern day armour. Each piece makes its own statement, building a positive tension thus, empowering the wearer. An air of artificiality emphasizes the evolution of crucial details in design.
What can we expect to see?
“We will see colours that are derived from a dark uniform palette. Think about a dark oil stain on a wet pavement. Furthermore we want to put the spotlight on the strong and the vulnerable parts of a woman in order to provide her the protection that she needs to face the world. As for the fit, think pronounced angular and curved shapes mixed with a touch of tailored design. We chose new materials that are more technological than we have ever used before. We also used leather and other materials that enhance protection and are key iNDiViDUALS materials are used in every collection.”
Individuals By AMFI will present their latest collection on Wednesday night, the 23rd of January at 07.00 P.M.
See our gallery below for some sneak peeks of the collection.
The Individuals fashion show we saw on Thursday was named Some dream of running away to the circus. The show was all about elegant wearable clothes with fun details. After lots of smoke was blown in the air the first girls appeared. They wore dresses, tops and pants in purple and champagne. Some pleats and fringes were nice details and most of the clothes were loose fitting.
Leather accessories like gloves and knee-bands gave the looks a fun twist. And the knee stockings added some extra color.
The models all had beautiful make-up, completely matching with the show’s circus theme. The colors of their clothes (dazzling white, popping pink, daring turquoise en cannon ball black) were used for the make-up as well.
The collection had some pretty strong outfits in it. They were beautifully tailored and had a nice, wearable silhouette.
Individuals is an ever changing collective of young creative designers. By combining talent every time an inspiring story is told. Every generation adds it’s own unique chapter to the continuing story of Individuals.
Individuals is sold in the Netherlands and is now focusing on expanding abroad (United States, France, Japan and Denmark). In September an Individuals pop-up store will be opened in London.
We received this goodiebag at the Individuals by AMFI fashion show.
By Papabubble candy
Redken – hairspray – 100 ml
Rituals – Shanti Shower – 30 ml
Cake (not so tasty)
Card about the show
Estimated Value: €7,-
This year we pay attention to the goodiebags we receive at every fashion show. Although they’re called goodiebags, not everything that’s inside is really a goodie. Therefore we review the bags we receive during the Amsterdam Fashion Week and estimate their value.
At the end of the week we’ll announce the Goodiebag winner. Check it out!
The goodiebag we received at ELSIEN GRINGHUIS’ fashion show contained:
Face powder – Maybelline
Box with eye luminizer, lipgloss, nailpolish and two hairproducts – Redken
Estimated value: € 20,-
The goodiebag we received at the INDIVIDUALS by AMFI fashion show contained:
Sample parfum (small + large) – Idylle
Folder – Laimbock
Two postcards – AMFI
Estimated value: € 5,-
The goodiebag we received at MADA VAN GAANS’ fashion show contained:
A Mada van Gaans bag
Two ball points – Toppoint
Color enhancer for blond hair – Redken
Folder – Ariane Inden
Estimated value: € 5,-
The goodiebag we received at Camilla Norrback’s fashion show contained:
Lipbalm keycord – Volvo Ocean Race
Book by Martin Bril, named ‘Zweedse liefde’
Liv: Volvo Lifestyle
Keyring – c30
Estimated value: € 15,-
By Ivo Wiermans
Lichting 2009 presented the best of each of the 7 Dutch fashion academies: Nathanya Zwart, Erna Einarsdottir, Ratna Ho, Ireneo Ciammella, Kai Salomon, malousebastiaan, Joran de Kok, Bregje Cox, Liesbeth van Gemeren, Aida Saracini, Ann Boogaerts, Marina Krunic, Twan Meijerink and Manon Boertien. Ann Boogaerts won the G-Star Raw Talent Award, a price worth 10.000 euro.
Lichting 2009 turned out to be one of the most spectacular catwalk shows during this season’s Amsterdam Fashion Week. Lichting is a unique platform founded to fill the gap between Dutch fashion academies’ most promising students and the professional fashion industry.
This season’s Lichting show covered the collections of 14 students, 2 of every fashion academy and was sponsored by G-Star Raw. The best designer won a price worth 10.000 euros and a trip to G-Star’s presentation at NYC Fashion Week. Ann Boogaerts of ArteZ won the G-Star Raw Talent Award.
A panel, consisting 4 of Europe’s most important fashion professionals (Wendy Dagworthy, co-founder of London Fashion Week, Garance Doré, writer and photographer, Susanna Lau, editor of Dazed & Confused and Lucas Ossendrijver, designer for Lanvin Homme) chose Boogaarts as best young designer.
All collections captured of-the-moment elements in global fashion. Like the pastel color gradients and oversized pieces with focus on shape. Also deconstruction, showed by studded and bead-covered outfits. Some collections looked like chaotic outfits made from ripped, cut and draped materials.
The best collections were the ones that were least on-fashion, showing something new. Like Ratna Ho’s collection, inspired by the ugliness of tribal tattoos, which resulted in curvy pantyhoses, pleated skirts and tops made of see-through materials. Designer-duo Malousebastiaan chose to use a round shape which doesn’t have a start or finishing point. Round curves were translated into blown-up silhouettes and dresses looked like they were grown organically.
Bregje Cox was inspired by big cities’ super structures and rare etnical images. Cut-open dresses and big mirror elements looked like Asian symbols or an aerial road map.
Manon Boertien used her positive memories of religion and spirituality and sunlight reflecting crystals as inspiration. The outfits in bold shapes and facet-like prints looked truly happy and positive.
Although each member of the panel praised the collections for their high quality, young Belgian designer Ann Boogaerts from ArtEZ was happy to receive the award. Her collection was inspired by Belgian royalty and Dutch artists like Mondrian. There were beautiful geometrical shaped dresses in bright colors like yellow and red. Fine embroidery and stylish hair and shoes made the outfits look royal-worthy. The Dutch national anthem played during the show. Boogaerts seemed to be proud of her being a young Dutch designer.
By Ivo Wiermans
Students of Amsterdam Fashion Institute (AMFI) showed their seventh collection for the school’s label Individuals. The young designers presented a collection called LaLaLa. A title that perfectly described a series of fascinating pieces.
Besides the prints with LaLaLa, it was a collection with a true LaLaLa attitude. Strong and soft looking outfits were mixed, there were sharp looking artisanal white jackets with big shoulders. Some were knee-long, looking beautifully powerful. The Margiela-esque corsets made of leather ice-skateshoes in skin colors were attached to soft shirts, or mixed with skirts creating a confident look without being too severe. The golden leggings looked like armor All pieces were in soft colors – eggshell, skin, off-white – which gave the strong outfits an air of lightness.Sheer tops and pleated blouses covered more rigid pieces, making the outfits look not too serious. Evening dresses looked elegant, due to flowing materials. This collection proved that hard-edge fashion can be comfortable and fragile at the same time.
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AMFI Catwalk Fashion Show FW09 Video