Round Up Paris/Milan Menswear SS2012
Responding to the shout out for creative design, as cited by Suzy Menkes in International Herald Tribune, we proceed like cherry pickers this season. Heading for fun and unexpected novelty we picked out the more juicy and snappy influences. Starting with the ETHNIC, here as a proven of artisanal excellence by Burberry Prorsum. Stating the omnipresence of THE DEEP BLUE, the most-favoured shade of the season (Dries van Noten). Happily shaken up by mashed up CHECKS as masterly executed by Raf Simons. Soothed by relaxed SANDBLASTED Sahara tailoring (Salvatore Ferragamo) appealing to our sense for well being. To conclude with the big bouncer, a fun feel for ECCENTRIC, with which Prada, amongst others, keeps up the spirit.
Tribal pattern meets sporty elegance. Military tailoring adds detail to most minimal silhouettes. The story is mainly about pattern and finishing. Maasai warriors line up with modern day happy hippies. In warm earth and spice tones mingled with happy brights. The Burberry Prorsum collection is exemplary and celebrates its artisan roots.
THE DEEP BLUE
The international catwalks were flooded with deep, dense blue. Some items gleaming in wet look surfaces where others more natural and relaxed. Tension in graduated toning and shading as well as in texture where structure meets softness and natural meets high-tech. Roomy parkas and trench coats come in silks as well as nylon and sporty shorts layer long pants.
Checks serve the feel for pattern and print. From classic tartans and plaids at Gaultier, intricate kinetic patchwork at Raf Simons to slim silhouettes in black and white 60s mod checks at Gucci. Moncler Gamme Blue speeds up towards a more racy and sporty flow.
Travelling south to Côte d’Azur while heading for Sahara desert. Safari and utilitarian jackets and pants with khaki as a key color. Jackets are belted and pants are wide at Salvatore Ferragamo. YSL presents some surprising placed lace-up details. Fabrics are plain and natural in pure cotton and linen looks.
Think American tourists playing golf in the 50s. A touch of Hawaii and American retro with a fun dose of bad taste. Tailored, double-breasted suits mismatch with loud clashing floral printed shirts or pants. Western shirts embellished with rhinestones, recall memories of young Elvis. Prada and Kenzo spice up there ranges with funky, colourful accessories
The Olympics next year seem to have energised the runway shows and positioned sport at the heart of fashion. Outdoor inspiration leads to functional garments with a utilitarian foundation. Hiking, fishing, sailing and hunting as well as golf, all fuelled with a healthy dose of irony. Mesh serves as a key fabric look at both Dolce & Gabbana and Moncler Gamme Bleu.
This will become big! Celine was the one to set off with foulard prints last season, with Prada in her footsteps starring panel printed monkeys and bananas. Now time is ripe for a true 80’s Versace revival of loud head to toe decorative foulard patterns as staged by D&G. Brave, bold and baroque. It concludes in a look reminiscent of muscle boys as photographed by Bruce Weber and Herb Ritts in the 80’s.
Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam