Round Up New York ss2012
The good news is that the NY spirit was more optimistic and colourful, decorative and creative then we have seen for a long time. The big news was digital printing. But how new was that? We recognised many inspirations from previous seasons from various hands. Repeated looks and themes where blended, swirled and twisted. It was like everything was like anything and everybody inspired everyone and all collections of previous seasons came together for a cheerful remembrance party. But yet we still would like to point out some clear leads.
With Alex Wang at the forefront, this shows the feel for active and performing, technical fabrics. It’s very sports inspired, with racy details and closures and fuelled with sensuality.
Proenza Schouler and Donna Karen hit the road with rattan and raffia tribal patterns in an African ethnic palette.
Marc Jacobs didn’t want things to feel real and they didn’t. Reminiscent of Prada he played with plastics and high sheen, sparkling surface effects and all kinds of innovative finishing. Dazzle and flash.
Why did it take that long and why does it stay that close to the pavement laid out by those great pioneers, Alexander McQueen and Mary Katranzou. Lovely, happy and very exiting though.
This theme shares with us moments of nostalgia and makes us long for times that were innocent and frivolous. Holiday forever in these not just referenced, yet simple literary quoted historic silhouettes.
And it just can be that you find al those influences passing by in one single catwalk show, serving collections like ‘grand desserts’.
Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam