The Calvin Klein fall-collection was loosely based on Mod styles — shift-dresses, trapeze shapes, A-line skirts— but not exactly. Everything shown was done in quiet colors:  wheat, gray, white, a little black. It looked fresh and young, but luckily didn’t have that cute factor to which a swinging Sixties-inspiration can often lead. This was a grown up Mod-style, minimalistic with longer lengths and luxurious fabrics sometimes with a little texture. The silhouette looked looser and softer, there was a focus on volume and proportion play.

A lot of energy went in developing high-tech fabrics, like the thick silk twill that looked like liquid cardboard on cigarette pants, and the silk ribbon jacquard that had a fuzzy, matted finish on a two-piece sheath.