The best of Milan Fashion Week FW2010
Many Italian brands proved they know exactly how fashion works during Milan Fashion Week. Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Jil Sander and Marni all showed very strong collections meant to be worn by strong women.
Dolce & Gabbana
The Dolce & Gabbana show was one of the best shows we saw in Milan. With their 50th fashion show Domenico and Stefano went back to their roots. They showed everything Dolce & Gabbana stands for, which they described by the terms Sicilianita’, Sartorialita’ and Sensualita’. The show, which started off by a clip of the designer working in their atelier, was a true sensation. Domenico and Stefano presented perfect tailoring with a very feminine touch. Their polka dots, animal and floral prints combined perfectly with all the black. Like in the show for their summer collection of 2010 the designers at the end sent out 75 models on the runway. All of them were dressed in black jackets. What a lovely sight! The show was marvellous, but you’d have to be there to understand why it made certain people cry.
Anther brand that stayed very true to itself was Jil Sander. Raf Simons took some inspiration from the Lara Croft movie Tomb Raider and said to have designed the collection for ‘women with a target’. The tight catsuits, the boots with Velcro-closures and the streamlined shorts suits represented the Tomb Raider influence. While another part of the collection, with colorful tweeds and checks, felt very classic. The whole collection gave us the Jil Sander feeling from the nineties and Raf Simons showed retro-minimalism like it’s supposed to.
Just when Jil Sander went back to the nineties, Miuccia Prada travelled back in time to the fifties. At her show we saw elegant looking women in sophisticated clothes. They didn’t show much skin, yet their busts were highly accentuated. Ruffles and pleats brought the focus of the designs to the models’ breasts and small belts focused on their waists. The skirts were longer than before at Prada and the models were fuller-figured. It all felt somewhat conservative, but maybe that was just what Miuccia was going for. And she wasn’t the only one. Marc Jacobs went for the fifties look in his Louis Vuitton collection as well. And since Prada and Louis Vuitton are two of the top fashion brands of the world, we might see a lot more of the fifties in future collections.
A great aspect of the Marni collection were the colors. The ochre, dusty pink, matt olive, ox blood red and the turquoise green looked suitable for fall and yet were bright enough to feel fresh. They were there on Marni’s bermuda’s, tops, skirts and on the arty T-shirts made by Gary Hume. Not only did we love the clothes with their structured silhouettes, the perforated shoes and major accessories were to die for as well. Overall Marni’s collection surprised us with it’s unexpected fits and color combinations. We can not wait to wear those ochre bermuda’s!
Overall Milan’s hightlights represent a sophisticated lady like look. Nothing too loud, sexy or over the top. Just wearable clothes in which women can feel feminine and comfortable.