Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011
The fall-collection Marni sent out this morning was completely different from the sporty, vibrating and colorful collection that’s in the stores for spring. And yet, typical Marni, thanks to the motifs, color-choices, chunky shoes and jewelry. The overall look felt vintage with a very modern and contemporary touch.
The shape was rigorous: strict yet softened around the edges. The tone is graphic, dry, non-romantic: juxtapositions of colors and textures give garments a constructivist feel. Straight lines and dense fabrics defined a new dialogue between clothing and body, but the underlying message was definitely feminine.
The silhouette is lean and coherent, with rounded shoulders and hemlines that stop right below the knee. The garments encase the body as they were soft cocoons. Bonded leather coats have an architectonic purity, while furs add a tactile element through intarsia patterns and unexpected tonal combinations. Fabrics had an intense, tactile hand: double-faced wool crepe; wool fil bouclè; bonded lurex knit; knitted wool felt; bonded leather.
The palette was precious and strict, with slight ruptures: tones of black, cream, midnight blue and jade green are accented with flashes of yellow, pink, coral and inky purple.