Highlights of Menswear Milan SS2012
Summer 2011 has just started and we’re already on our way to 2012. Milan menswear-shows brought us some new trends. Not any BIG news really, but shifts in menswear go slowly and rather invisible. Much talked about shows were the Prada-show, with Miucca’s take on golf and all the rules, rituals and codes that belong to that world; the Jil Sander show and Raf Simons’s new black and the Versace-show which looked like an homage to the old Gianni-times. But the seven main trends – besides the wider pants, longer jackets and absence of ties – so far in Milan are the return of sportswear, blue as the new favorite color, bold prints, new checks, tribal-elements, the motor-jacket and the playboy as the new icon.
With the Olympics starting next year in London, it seems a lot of designers are finding inspiration in sportswear. From the tongue in cheek-golfwear from Prada to the fencing-game at Moncler Gamme Bleu. In between you’ll find references to tennis, swimwear, running and sailing. You’ll see it in the color white, the shirts, shorts, the blue and red stripes, the shoes and pants.
Every kind of blue came back in different collections, there were even designers who presented a whole collection in this color. It’s commercial, it’s fresh, it’s suitable for a lot of men and it’s the color of independence, trust and ambition. And in the world of today men can use that.
If you’re not into those new bold Versace-esque prints you can always turn to the good old fashioned checks. Well, old fashioned – designers gave them a new look, twisted them, rearranged them and came up with a new version. And they love to mix them together.
Ready for some new, bold prints? After the color-blocking from this summer, the Versace-esque print will be the new next thing to show off. And nobody does it better that Donatella Versace herself. Miami here we come!
Tribal influences are not really big, but they surely will spice up a suit or jeans – and that’s what menswear needs right now. And when Christopher Bailey of Burberry uses them, you know a trend is born.
The new playboy
Skinny boys were replaced by playboys with a real body in Milan last week. And fashion also embraces the new playboy in the way he dresses and empasizes his body.
The short jacket
With the playboy comes also the short jacket, that accentuate the torso and leaves room to the hips and legs. It also adds a younger touch to an outfit, as long as it’s in leather or plain, minimal cotton. The padded version of Prada seems only suitable for small, skinny boys without a six-pack.