Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2019

February 15, 2019 by  
Filed under Fashion, womenswear

Marc Jacobs presented us with a complete A-line shaped collection this week. Forget cinched waists, the volumes of Jacobs dresses only got bigger and bigger from the shoulders down. It all started off with a anima printed cape followed by lots of voluminous and heavy capes and coats. Costum-y dresses with exaggerated proportions, tulle, feathers and ruffles in the mix. Looks topped of by the Stephen Jones–designed hats. It felt like a classic game of dress-up in your grandmother’s attic. There might have been a few award show worthy gowns in this collection. Yet apart from wearing these designs to such extravagant occasions like the Oscars or the Golden Globes the collection lacked wearability and modernity for clothes to be worn anywhere else. Then again that probably isn’t a concern for Jacobs at this point.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show NYC SS2019

September 13, 2018 by  
Filed under Fashion

Marc Jacobs couture extravaganza took over New York Fashion Week today. Apart from a hand full of looks (a slip dress, a trench coat and a pastel colored pencil skirt) there was nothing ready to wear about this collection. His over the top looks included clownishn pants with polka dot tops, Pierrot collars and a tiny hat to match, architectonic dress with fur and tulle and ruffled creations with larger than life floral accents made of twisted silk. All done in the sweetest palette of pink, orange, yellow and blue shades. The looks were playful, fun and costum-y. We could even see Anna Piaggi’s splitting image pop up a few times. This was not a show about trends or about what we’ll be wearing a year from now. It was about escaping everyday life and bringing back the fun into fashion. Let’s live it all up in Marc Jacobs fashion fantasy!

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2018

February 15, 2018 by  
Filed under Fashion, New York, womenswear

A true runway-collection that was what Marc Jacobs had in mind designing his fall 2018 collection. And what a runway-collection it was. He made his case for real fashion, fashion that’s not diluted or dumbed down, with an all-out, obvious homage to one of fashion’s greatest gods, and, at his height, most daring innovators, Yves Saint Laurent. This was Saint Laurent on steroids (with nods to one or two other designers), as Jacobs exploded proportions and dazzled with an audacious color sense to rival Saint Laurent’s own: maroon fake-fur chubbie over navy blouse, orange pants and purple sash; jade coat over hot pink blouse and berry-colored leather skirt (or was it pants?). Jacobs kept most volumes huge, the shoulders of myriad coats and jackets cut big, bigger, biggest, over high-waisted skirts and cropped, pleated pants, rounded through the hips. The grand stroke was everywhere, in huge flowers at the neck of a blouse or at the waist; a dolman sleeve with trumpet cuffs; an ebullient pouf on the bodice of a gown; high-drama, flat-brimmed hats. Occasionally, Jacobs worked in a body-con moment, dresses that lost volume but not impact. This was fashion to the max. A celebration of fashion.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2017

February 17, 2017 by  
Filed under Fashion

The models at the Marc Jacobs show wore real clothes of the casual sort — early hip-hop with a soupçon of Seventies sportif in a palette of warm neutrals shot with red, wine and maroon. It was not at all tricked-out or exaggerated like last season. The anchor look was a short coat over a little dress, often in Twenties-inspired laces, or wide, extralong pants that puddled over boots. There was fur, both real and faux, and thick, patterned knits.

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Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2016

February 21, 2016 by  
Filed under Fashion, New York, womenswear

Marc Jacobs showed his extravaganza of fashion-noir on a stark white set to the sound of single chimed notes by Japanese musician Keiji Haino. Darkness ruled, but with an underlying sweetness. The models’ eyes and lips were black. The clothes were dark, wondrous, inventive, eccentric pilings of tweeds, furs, silks, and endless decoration, Victoriana meets Goth meets Biker Chic meets Varsity Chic meets Red Carpet meets Violet Incredible and countless other girls of Jacobs’ runways past. Cats, rats, cherubs and ballerinas got acquainted on prints, a giant raven took up residence on the back of a jacket and a lady named Gaga walked the show.

Marc Jacobs Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

September 18, 2015 by  
Filed under Fashion, New York, womenswear

“Marc Jacobs: One Night Only!” read the light box above the Ziegfeld theatre, the location of Marc Jacobs fashion show and the cinema where he, growing up in New York, saw so many movies. And oh boy, did Marc treat us to a special night out. As the stars of the evening, models acting as celebrities (even though they sometimes actually are in real life, hello Kendall Jenner) strutted the red carpet and posed in front of the Marc Jacobs photo wall we were escorted to our seats where we could watch them make their entrance. A live band played the New York Dolls’s 1973 song “Trash.” as Natalie Westling, dressed in an asymmetric raffia skirt and blue sweater, kicked off the fashion show. Clothes ranged from full on sequined and sheer party wear to sportive baseball jackets and striped sweaters. From denim on denim (as seen on Saskia de Brauw) to rock chick gone bridal (the final look). Stripes, stars, checks and prints of painted faces emphasized the theatre theme. Yet it was a bit back and forth with style, silhouette and color palette. Not to mention Marc’s selection of models was a bit out of the ordinary (hello Beth Ditto). Marcs SS2016 vision was hard to grasp in the short time frame of the show. The elegance and refinement of Marc Jacobs were still there. Yet looks were given a more playful Marc by Marc Jacobs touch. As if the designers discontinued fashion line and it’s bigger sister had merged. Presenting us with the best of both MJ worlds.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk, Fashion Show New York FW2015

February 20, 2015 by  
Filed under Fashion, New York, womenswear

Last season Marc Jacobs’ collection was all about military as an influence, his fall 2015 collection is military precision with no military reference. Everything was planned, crafted and polished to arch perfection, starting with the beauty — severe top knots and makeup; pristine manicures and pedicures despite gloves and covered shoes.

Within this exacting platform, Jacobs determined to parade the essence of the Marc Jacobs brand. To that end, he reviewed his past collections, selecting favorite recurring themes or specific elements to rework here: trompe l’oeil, dots, feminine looks in masculine fabrics, masculine looks in feminine fabrics, embellished coats, decorative sweats, patchwork furs, sweaters with argyle and heathers created with dazzling embroideries, references to art (Paul McCarthy; Space Invader), Saint Laurent, cartoon characters.

When many of these motifs first appeared in the Jacobs lexicon they were simpler: a dress with faux-pleats made of fabrics was just that. Here, everything was jeweled, embroidered, grommeted, sequined. Brocades topped crinolines and lined furs. A tweedy twinset was in fact sequins; an argyle, faux-python embroidery. Shearling was shorn into checks, mink sewn into chevron stripes and worn on the reverse side. Mannish coats flaunted sparkling jet cascades.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

February 18, 2015 by  
Filed under Fashion, New York, womenswear

Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier’s are now designing the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection for one year, and their message of youth, energy and grit remained strong and unwavering in attitude and aesthetic.

Bartley and Hillier have already secured their girl’s identity through a commendable consistency in the collections — the military references, graphic art, motor jackets and tailored skirts with tulle. For fall they steered in a defiant but positive direction, drawing on references including the work of artist William Morris, the Guardian Angels, the 1979 film “The Warriors” and Jeremy Deller’s political posters, which were channeled into graphic decorative statements.

The most notable progression were the long, lean silhouettes of structured maxi skirts and dresses, some with utility pockets, some bearing Morris’ pretty Arts and Crafts prints in shades of bright blue and muted green. The length gave the look a cool maturity that resonated in the refined cuts of neat, tailored fencing jackets, skinny cropped trousers and short dresses with molded bell-shaped skirts that had a smooth buoyancy.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2015

September 10, 2014 by  
Filed under Fashion, New York, womenswear

Energy — the driving force of the planet, whether it unites, divides, uplifts or negates. In a matter of three seasons, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley have infused Marc by Marc Jacobs with the kind of charge that people seek out. Young, fierce and intense, the powerful attitude established for fall gained momentum for spring.

‘Be who you are’ would be the mantra of the spring Marc by Marc girl. Wearing a cropped T-shirt layered under a plastic, pastel-blue polka-dot bandeau and matching skirt, herhair twisted into a mohawk of mini-buns, she would be the confident nonconformist at the party — intimidating but probably a lot of fun.



 

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

February 12, 2014 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley are the new designers of the Marc by Marc Jacobs-collection from now on. They presented their first collection yesterday. The designers wasted no time establishing a strong point of view: The new Marc by Marc girl is badass, if charmingly so. A culmination of street culture, grunge and sporty irreverence — the elements Marc Jacobs used to define the label in its infancy — the new look was filed under BMX ninjas. Bartley and Hillier had in mind an active person with energy, a bit feisty and sulky.
Spare tailoring was established first with a plain black shirt over a white turtleneck bodysuit and navy trousers, amped up with extreme accessories: a shiny black obi and giant high-tops. There were sharp blazers, long wrap skirts and neat coats, one with oversize fit, all of it cut with an edge. From there, Hillier and Bartley unleashed a surge of fearless, subversive spirit that mixed BMX style with Japanese manga and warrior motifs.

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