After the skinny, the flared, the palazzo and the pajama pants a new trouser trend is taking over. This season’s trousers are looser than loose and form a mix of rave pants and pleated trousers. They’re comfortable, yet chic. They’re careless, yet cool. Perfect for a warm day (when you don’t feel like going bare legged) ‘cause you don’t wear them too close on your skin. Make ‘em chic or go grungy by opting for high heels or tough trainers. Pair them with a chic top or a relaxed Tee and don’t forget to hide your hands in your pockets for that careless it-girl appeal! In our gallery some loose pants inspiration for spring/summer from the likes of Balmain, Tibi, Lacoste and Chloé . Not all exactly rave pants, but comfy and cool nevertheless.

As part of the Japonism trend wrap tops are popping up everywhere. Asymmetric, sheer, printed, silky or linen; the possibilities are endless. At Etro the ladies were wrapped up in floral printed tops that literally breathed the far east. Dries van Noten gave his versions a unique twist by making them sheer, by choosing gorgeous nature inspired prints and by mixing them up with his tartan hit-print. At Prada and Pucci the tops were shiny and silky, as Prada’s creations seemed only vaguely inspired by the original wrap designs. As it appeared even a regular blouse can get the same wrap treatment by tying it together with a Eastern inspired obi belt. And after going through all these images we suddenly feel the urge to start putting a belt on top of every outfit, ’cause it looks so damn cute. It’s a wrap everybody!

Forget those super short mini’s, this season is all about the pencil skirt and honestly we can not think of anything sexier. Long, slim, figure hugging and therefore super feminine. No Marilyn Monroe moments with these beauties, since they’re almost skintight. Whether metallic (Burberry, Jonathan Saunders), leather (Loewe, Oscar de la Renta), floral printed (Altuzarra) or fully checked (Louis Vuitton) all of this season’s pencil skirts can be multi functional. Pair them with a blouse and a jacket in the morning when you hit the office. And throw on a cropped top for dinner or drinks later that night. Never mind you’re unable to run in them. We welcome this picture perfect, feminine vibe!

Now here’s a trend that is bigger on the streets that it is on the runway… chicks on kicks. Not only clothing wise we’re opting for more comfort, even our high heels are left at home more often than before. And what better alternative to wear than a good pair of sneakers! And the good thing about this trend is that you don’t have to look or feel less sexy or feminine. Even with a good pair of kicks on your feet you can be a classy lady. Combine your favorite New Balance, Converse, Isabel Marant or Nike Air Max (Yes, they’re back!) with a summer-y attire. Wear flirty skirts and dresses, preferably with bare, sunkissed legs to add some sexiness. Not sure if this trend will work for you? Get inspired by our gallery. Only a few designers dared to put their catwalk models in sporty sneakers, but at least our favorite streetstyle icons give the right example.

Burberry, Dior, Comme des Garcons, Diane von Furstenberg, Jonathan Saunders, Viktor & Rolf; all major fashion houses that presented shiny summer collection. From gold and silver to colorful metallic and nacre coatings; it was all shimmer and shine on this season’s runways. Of course those floor length V&R and Dior skirts are not really suited for your average day at the office. But most designers managed to make metallics look very suitable for wearing on any given day. Tank tops, pencil skirts, loose blouses and tailored jackets all got the shine treatment (whether it being made of sequins or just a nacre layer) and were worn with minimal embellishments. The looks breathed optimism, future and festivity and we can’t help but feel happy while scrolling through those images. With this trend we go from the office straight to any fashion party in the same look and still turn heads. Now who doesn’t like that?

They might look rather futuristic at first sight, yet structured looks are conquering the catwalks. Sweaters, skirts, jackets; they’re all getting lots of volume. Around the collar, in the shoulders, around the waist and near the hemline. Unfortunately not a very wearable look for everyone, but we spotted countless petite fashion week visitors pulling off this trend. On the streets we mostly spotted those Balenciaga space sweaters. Next year, though, it will be a whole different story. As the new ruffled/structured Balenciaga, the strong shouldered Balmain and the voluminous Burberry collections hit the streets. Those tiny editor/blogger figures will be fully covered by blow up designs, with only two slim legs appearing from underneath it giving away their tiny frames. Streetstyle photogs will have their hands full capturing all structured styles and the front row will be even more packed now that outfits take up so many extra space. Welcome to the future.

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Summer after summer we’ve seen floral prints concurring the runways. This season too the flower popped up during numerous big fashion shows, but it wasn’t the only nature inspired detail. Besides flowers, big leaves, water patterns, mountains, trees and animal were all part of this nature trend. And whether graphically printed (Just Cavalli, Matthew Williamson) or hand embroidered (Prada, Chanel); every single mountain, leef or flower looked stunning. Dries van Noten, Carlos Miele and Just Cavalli opted for printed sheerness, while Antonio Marras, Anna Sui and Bottega Veneta choose thicker, more structured fabrics. We found the biggest jungle out there at Kenzo. Here full on printed jumpsuits, busy printed safari looks and large bright leopard prints combined with tiger (it) sweaters warmed us up for a tropical summer 2013.

Grunge is back in fashion and it has a slightly new identity. The modern way we express grunge is slightly more feminine, a little more colorful and perhaps therefore a bit more accessible too. Dries van Noten brought back the tartan print back to life and made it sexier by using it on sheer fabrics. Philip Lim gave his models a tartan print to go too as he tied it around their waists in a nineties kind of way. But there’s more to grunge than this Scottish check. Denim, dark leather, piercings and beanies are revived as well, mixed together in a lighter, more playful way then ever before. And though we still see a lot of black leather within this trend Saint Laurent and Lim proof even floral prints can portray grunge. And let’s not forget the grunge-inspired beauty; dark lips & eyes, super straight or funky frizzy hair. See our gallery for all spring/summer grunge inspiration and take a sneak peek at some of the fall/winter collections for even more on this theme.

So we’ve had the mixing bold (retro) prints and colors trend. Now it’s time to take it to another level. This season therefore is all about patchwork fashion items. Jackets, skirts and dresses made out of multiple – very different – fabrics sewn together. Though it’s more of a trend you’d usually associate with winter several designers (the patchwork pioneers) have been able to give it a fresh summer feeling. At Erdem light spring prints were combined with a leather snake fabrics. Antonio Marras mixed different fresh looking tweeds, army and floral prints together. Preen used colorful stripes and snake prints for his dresses and skirts. The designers at Proenza Schouler used snake skin for their patchwork too, as Rodarte experimented with a mix of colors, prints and materials. On the streets it was still a little too early to spot this patchwork phenomena (although the jersey sweaters with printed scarf parts are some kind of patchwork too). Yet once all girls are bored of their fully printed looks they’ll undoubtedly head into this direction.

They´re feminine, flattering and look so sweet you almost want to take a bite out of them. For this year too the international runways were filled with pastel shades. From vanilla and lemon, to blueberry and pistache; sorbet chic is the color way to go. Always part of the sweet tooth team Blugirl and Blumarine, but also Valentino and Chloé went for sheer, ruffled pastel looks. As Fendi (shades of salmon and mustard work so well together), Chalayan and Mulberry opted for a cleaner kind of look. And that´s exactly how we saw these pastel hues back on the streets; less feminine (away with the ruffles and the lace) and more structured (thick fabrics, masculine shapes). Surprising in a way, yet still very natural. Which flavours are you combining this season?

Since a few seasons now designers seem fully focused on the far east. We’ve already seen collections with oriental shapes, techniques, materials and prints, but the Asian hype not over yet. For this season the Japonism is fashion is just taken to the next level with designers being divided into two Asian inspired worlds. The ones Emilio Pucci, Carolina Herrera, Altuzarra who opt for decorative designs, traditional techniques, bold prints and color. And the designers Etro, Stella McCartney, Prada, Marni that focus on shape and structure, introducing trouser suits, shirt dresses and architectural kimono shapes. Now you don’t need to go all the way (Geisha platforms, dragon printed dresses, Obi belts) like these designers to join the Asian celebration. Just invest in a subtle embroidered blouse or a chic kimono jacket. Mixing Japanese influences with your modern wardrobe pieces like they belong together in one look, that’s the trick.

Looking like a top athlete without exercising, that’s this season’s active-passive trend. ‘Cause even though those Alexander Wang, CNC, DKNY and Philip Lim design appear super sporty, we’re afraid you can not even make a 100m run it them. All that sheerness, those cut outs and mesh fabrics of course breathe a sporty vibe, but construction-wise they might not survive a real exercise. Yet of course that doesn’t mean we won’t fully embrace those baseball style jackets, oversize sheer sweaters, large collars, hoodies and bright & white combining jackets. Add a cool leather cap (you’ve probably already scored one of those last winter) and a pair of limited edition Nike Air Max and release your inner sporty spice!

This summer is all about graphics. And besides wide stripes checks have been revised by a large number of designers. It’s gone with the tame housewife checks, the rough lumberjack prints and the folkloristic tartans; this season checks are feminine, young, fun and modern. The chicest sheer examples were probably presented by Dries van Noten, who manged to perfectly blend colors, materials and floral prints in his summer looks. At Louis Vuitton, where even the catwalk was checked, they were the key aspect of the show. Sportmax and Chanel added some sheerness, Marni started mixing, Philip Lim went for fresh checks and floral accents. Then of course there were harlequin, pied-de-poule and tartan examples both on the runway and the streets. Whether it’s a checked suit or a lumberjack blouse tied around your waist; there’s no avoiding this trend. Checks please!

Short dresses, graphic patterns, eye catching collars, lots of black & white and heavy make-up. The sixties revival was in full swing during the spring/summer 2013 presentations from the likes of Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Moschino and Cacharel. Yet it was out with the doll-ish look and in with the stronger modern sixties styles. Skirt lengths, color palettes and hairdos might have been inspired by the Mad Men era; this sixties girl is definitely more self conscious and streetwise than the girls back in the days. She is not afraid to add peep toe shoes, a giant pearl necklace or even try on a more masculine, boxy kind of ensemble. Her dresses are short yet comfortable. Her prints daring, perhaps even slightly man repelling. But this sixties girl doesn´t care. She dresses up for no one else but herself and is enjoying it to the fulliest.

Countless fashion lovers dress head to toe in black every single day. A smart, safe style option you can never go wrong with. Now it seems there’s a pretty good alternative to all that black; fully dressing in white. Big brands like Chloé, Alexander Wang, Comme des Garcons, DKNY, Emilio Pucci, Givenchy, Jil Sander, Lacoste, Marni, Missoni and Rochas all picked up this positive, clean and summer proof trend. With looks ranging from tuxedo to sporty chic, from casual to more party inspired. The strongest SS2013 looks contain not only multiple white fashion pieces, but have different materials too. So mix your light knits with some crispy white sheer parts and add some jersey details along the way. Russian streetstyle sensations Mira Duma and Anya Ziourova have already been sporting this trend for a few seasons and it won’t be long till the rest of the world follows. Once you go completely white it just feels right.

CHECK SHOCK

From left to right: N21, Junya Watanabe, Céline, Jesús Del Pozo, Rag & Bone

A mash up of Scottish tweeds, plaids, checks, Prince of Wales suiting and hounds tooth jacquards. Classic, twisted, cut up, patched or blown up to grandiose proportions. These are definitely all from the now – heritage inspired, college prep, BCBG, archetypal and iconic but reinvigorated – rejuvenating tradition at N21 and Rag & Bone, adding a punk coded sense of rebellion at Junya Watanabe or with artful tailoring at Céline and Jesús Del Pozo. Check marks everywhere!

TEXTILE ART

From left to right: Comme des Garçons, Chanel, Hermès, Fendi, Lanvin

Free floating freedom and fun. Cascading swatches of fabrics, rosettes, bows, thick serpentines and bold biomorphic shapes at Comme des Garçons. Rounded flounced belle Époque bustles are a joyful explosion of extravagance at Chanel. Crafted spontaneity at Hermès, fringed skins at Fendi and butterflies appliquéd at Lanvin. All with techno-barbarian enthousiasm. These are exercises in pure texture.

PRINT STORY

From left to right: Mary Katrantzou, Rodarte, Tom Ford, Peter Pilotto

Welcome to the catwalk circus. Exalted excess in a cultural cross over ranging from glam, to disco, pop to op and manga to Marvel. Fantastical shadowy landscapes in misty monochromes at Mary Katrantzou and cross-cultural multi ethnic Flash! and Bang! at Tom Ford. The very personal folksy mysticism of Rodarte and the cartoonish verve of Peter Pilotto. We are talking maximalism here!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Some collections might not have had the shock of the new and many showed that swift notion of the mid-century modern. Most interesting it was when a faint whiff of nostalgia was balanced with nowness. A lingering trend we spotted was the eccentric mixture of nostalgic wallpaper florals, art nouveau, Scottish heritage, Art Deco and Liberty blooms. All simmering in romance.

The buzz words where: intimate, feminine, elegance and emotion. Not just the collections played their roll. In some cases the interest in settings and sceneries became predominant. The Vuitton show unrolled like a silent movie. The mood was the 1920s, as the models came through each door on the corridor that was the hotel set. An atmosphere just as cinematic was the Film Noir setting at Prada – a spinning ceiling fan, shadows cast by blinds, a woman silhouetted in a doorway, waiting for…? All by means of an artful back projection. Miuccia launched her exercise in fashion as cinema.

Another hot topic was warmth generated by tactile softness. Cuddly, fluffy and sheltering. The number of soft and brushed looks grew steadily during this catwalk season. Especially coats where cuddly and generous in proportion. For some designers softness was the covering theme. Hernandez for Proenza Schouler stated: “It was all just soft, that’s the one word we were thinking about. Softness of form, softness of color, softness of texture.”

To wrap this up we point out that coats took the lead. Generally and globally this item won when it came to presence and quantity as well as quality of design. So passion, warmth, softness and coats. Setting the stage for an ice age!

We picked the frozen cherries for you, straight off the international catwalks in New York, Milan and Paris.

FEMINITY REVEALED

From left to right: Rodarte, Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Chloé and Prada

From pure exposure to more subtle revelations – intimacy exposed at Saint Laurent, emerging womanhood at Chloé, modern romance at Rodarte and passionate nostalgia at Vuitton and Prada. Sensuality and emotions unraveled in cinematic atmospheres showed femininity ‘under cover’ – soft lace hidden under long tweed coats, fluffy sweaters came with a slip of a skirt and velvet dresses had a swoop of neckline.

CALM ELEGANCE

From left to right: Jil Sander, Victoria Beckham, Hermès, Rochas, Ports 1961

A true timeless elegance flooded the catwalks at Jil Sander, Victoria Beckham, Hermès, Rochas and Ports 1961. Much more serene, feminine and sensual then the calm sobriety we faced seasons before. All soft and rounded. The skirts flaring just below the knee, showing true elegance in New Look proportions. Jackets elongated and slightly suppressed at the waist and coats – mannish and reassuringly oversize. All breathed calmness with lasting value in an esprit ranging from ‘Bon Chic Bon Genre’ to Film Noir allure. Slow, calm, quiet and with lasting value.

GREY MOOD

From left to right: Alexander Wang, Stella McCartney, Céline, J.W. Anderson, Lacoste

Concrete caught by the fuzz. Grayed-out and foggy marls were key for fall 2013. Brushed mohair, heathery and airy fleeces, compact felts and tarmac shaded double-face and bonded materials. This all added up to strange and sculptural beautiful cloths. Asphalt fleece and mohair knits are paved with iridescence at Alexander Wang, Stella McCartney wrapped her models in pinstripes, where Céline knotted hers in felt touch woolens. Monastic tunics at J.W. Anderson and fossil florals at Ports 1961.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Cosy is not the usual aspect spotted on a Paris catwalk. But nevertheless we met a snug bedtime spirit in Paris with models flaunting out of hotel rooms in silky, lush pyjamas, lace-edged-negligees and flowery dressing gowns. Roomy, soft robes that showed the generous proportions of menswear. Sensual and intimate voluptuous bathrobes lined in marabou. Fabulous, sheltering cashmere wrap-coats in baby blue, pink, camel and blush in smooth, winter-weight woolens and brushed plaids. And thick silk pyjamas printed with English tweed patterns or tender China florals.

Softness and desire seemed a re-found aspect, in touchable styles that established an intimate dialogue between the masculine and the feminine.

Carven is rounding out with oversize coats in teddy bear textures. Cinematic sceneries at Vuitton, in a film noir esprit, showing various states of dress and undress in a midcentury inspired atmosphere. Stella McCartney goes square, though softened, in snugly, velvet touch robe coats.

We noted a refreshing sense of ease, slightly quirky and off beat and an inspiring invitation to cuddle up.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

The silhouette she presented was new for-Miu Miu with the long coats and sweaters worn over longer skirts that revealed the ankle. The look seemed rooted in conservative, early 1900s nostalgia. One ensemble — a fitted black jacket with big round buttons and orange astrakhan collar, worn over a polka-dot skirt with an orange ostrich carpet bag and silver Mary Janes — brought to mind Mary Poppins.

There were sporty jackets and belted bodices cut out of quilted navy-blue nylon with pronounced zippers, big pockets and ribbed knit cuffs and hems. The clownish motifs that were used sparingly as styling effects at first, escalated to full looks by the finale of chic cut coats in pink, yellow and baby blue.

Jacobs focused on the intimate sartorial gesture: slips, pajamas, robes de chambre. These were paired with some of the season’s best coats and jackets, worn in odd combinations — proportions deliberately awkward, colors sometimes off.

The pieces were gorgeous:  a herringbone pattern made entirely of embroidered sequins; voluptuous robes lined in marabou. Some coats came in cashmere with deep borders of dégradé sequins; others, in thick silk printed to resemble English tweeds.
Of course, there were Vuitton bags – but without a logo in sight. Jacobs interpreted the house’s classic shapes in tony materials — croc, python, mink and hand-curled goose feathers — often finished with carved ebony or wooden handles.

Held at the OTT Opéra Comique, Sarah Burton closed the fall fashion season with a collection of just ten pieces. Divided into five themes (communion, nuns, cardinals, popes, and angels) the designer, who just gave birth to twins, presented two dress variations for every theme. “From communion gowns to cardinals”, read the show notes, as we tried to take in every single detail of the ten extravagant, angelic appearances full of various religious iconography. It might have been just ten looks, with models covered head (literally, since all girls sported heavy decorated masks) to toe in handcrafted, pearl encrusted lace ensembles, Sarah must have had her hands full. And why would you show so much more of the same thing, when you can perfectly convey your message with just a small selection. A smart fashion lesson to learn, right at the end of this Paris Fashion Week.

Elegant, French, chic; some words to describe Christophe Lemaire’s fall collection for Hermès. Oh did we mention French? Held at the Lycée Henri-IV library the setting breathed unlimited luxury, as did the clothes. Only the best materials (fur, suede, leather and the best cashmere) were used for Lemaire’s effortless, classic looks. A white shirt, camel coat, black leather pants, a selection of loose suits and a black belted dress appeared timeless too. Although modernity was added in mid calf skirts, the way materials were mixed and a certain androgyny. The fresh faced French looking models carried every ensemble with maximum grace as coats and scarves tossed on their shoulders gave them just that careless touch that makes French style so desirable.