It can go two directions. We’ve seen the bleached variant, spotted at Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci and Rick Owens.  A daring look spotted already last season. But mostly spotted is the exaggerated eyebrow, on the catwalk of Donna Karan, Proenza Schouler, Moschino and Max Mara.  They look well framed and brushy but natural, like Hollywood stars Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor back in the days. You can make it even more obvious using a thick eyebrow pencil.

Maybe it’s time to stop plucking your brows and see how this heavy one suits you.

(Eva Dusch)

For a few seasons it was all about natural hair en easy looks, but for this summer the designers changed course and seemed to be inspired by this grungy-look. The wetter the hair, the better. Make it as shiny and greasy as you can and comb your hair in the front all backwards. You can wear it loose and a bit messy and casual (Proenza Schouler and Marc Jacobs) or really tight and in a chic sidepart (Chanel).

You have to have some guts to wear your hair like this. But if you do, you might do some shopping now, because this looks requires loads of hair gel.

(Eva Dusch)

So what about her style? She’s no Anna Dello Russo or Lady Gaga. Caroline’s style is way more sophisticated and humble, but still always strong and elegant. She easily manages it to look feminine and sexy without overdressing and she perfectly knows how to translate trends into her own style. She often pairs here outfits with some edgy shades and her famous red lips.  But what she does share with the first named ladies is that she can wear anything, and without losing her own characteristic style. Just take a look…

(Eva Dusch)

This former Harper’s Bazaar editor is without a doubt one of our favorite streetstyle targets. Within one fashion week she’ll change her looks from sporty to couture and from quirky to classy and manages to always stay true to her own style.

Mira, as her friends call her, mixes Chloé with Chanel and Marni with Acne. She stays high on above the ground in stunning heels and eye catching wedges from Christian Louboutin to Alaïa. Almost every single one of her looks is finished off by a chunky necklace, of which Mira must own countless versions.

And if you thought Mira was just about pretty clothes, you’ve got it all wrong. Besides her amazing style and good looks this pint-sized fashionista has the brains too. She not only regularly collaborates with great fashion titles like Ok, Tatler and Glamour, but also founded her own fashion website called Buro 24/7, which is gaining more and more attention.

Take a look at her style and see why we are so fond of this Russian streetstyle sensation.

Christina Centenera, editor for Harper’s Bazaar Australia, always looks unique and flawless and therefore is one of our favorite streetstyle it-girls. She looks classy, but makes sure she adds a nice surprising touch to her looks. She has a cute face and still has some kind of rawness about her. She plays with volume, color and wears the greatest show stopping coats. This lady knows how to unify elegance and edge. No wonder the fashion paparazzi love her so much!

Christina likes anything with a stud on it, is crazy for metal details and claims she can not walk in flat shoes. She loves brands like Therese Rawsthorne and Pierry Hardy, yet you might just as easy spot her in a cool creation of an upcoming Australian designer. ’cause besides writing for Harper’s Bazaar this 30 year old streetstyle sensation also advices young upcoming designers (she even consulted Kanye West for his first collection) and wears their designs on a regular basis.

Shoe heels have been increasing in length enormously for the past few years and ‘the higher the better’ might even have been your personal heel motto, but it’s time for a change. As comfort is becoming more important in fashion again shoe heels have dropped a few inches. We spotted lower (kitten) heels at several big shows this season. Louis Vuitton, Ninna Ricci, Tory Burch and Hermes all opted for a slightly subtler heel in their spring/summer collections. Now don’t think by losing height those shoes have become any less attractive. They’re still sexy, but just better wearable. In these shoes you might actually last throughout your night out and you can leave your back-up ballerina’s at home. So shopping for lower heels it is! And while you’re at it: try finding shoes with a pointy toe, cause pointy is the new rounded (again).

As the seasons change and every once in a while we go from skinny to flared jeans and from round to pointed shoes, we also change from subtle bracelets to chunky bangles. And this summer, so it seems, it’s all about chunky jewelry.

We saw the eye-catching necklaces at Marni and the larger than life earrings at Blumarine and now it’s time to cover your wrists with big bangles. Choose for multiple ones like Bottega Veneta, Hermes and Carolina Herrera. Also, opt for color (we spotted orange, red and green ones) and maybe add a touch of gold (like we saw at Balmain) to bring it all together.

Whether they’re made out of leather, wool, metallic or wood; whatever suits your look the best is just fine. They don’t even need to be rounded; Gianfranco Ferré proved a square bangle can be just as much fun. Also, Giambattista Valli showed a few animal inspired examples that were even more creative.

Whatever bracelet you pick, there’s only one rule: don’t hold back! The brighter, the bolder, the better.

The classic skirt with the below-knee hemline, who had his highest point in the fifties, is making a huge comeback this season and has a key-role in many collections. Donna Karan, Burberry, Erdem, Jonathan Saunders, Louis Vuitton, Lanvin, Celine, Dolce&Gabanna, Chloé, Hermès, they all showed their own version of this evergreen. And the message seems clear: embrace your femininity, which results in body- con, pencil skirts on one hand or wide swing skirts on the other hand. This last one is probably the most popular one: high waisted and blossoming, preferably pleated, pastel colored and made out of silk or cotton.

How to wear it? Combine it with a classic blouse, or some chunky knitwear to give it some more edge. Even a baseball jacket could work, to give it an unusual twist and make it less girly.

Just take a look at these catwalk pictures or at all these women we’ve spotted on the street wearing this classic piece. Enough inspiration, we would say.

(Eva Dusch)

This trend works for almost every woman, no matter size or shape. And all these designers proved once more that minimalistic can be sexy and feminine too. And honestly, they make a great exception between all the girly flowers, pastels and fifties dresses that are already hanging in our closet, don’t you think?

(Eva Dusch)

She is a former model, but Julia Sarr Jamois is best known for her personal style. As a fashion editor at Wonderland magazine she visits the international fashion weeks and is the prime target for streetstyle photogs.

Julia mixes remarkable, colorful fashion pieces with funky sunglasses. Combined with her original hairstyle she often creates an outstanding, almost cartoonesk appearance for herself. Julia sets trends, dares to experiment and always stays true to her own quirky style.

No wonder this half Senegalese half French beauty was named one of the 100 most stylish people by US Vogue and is a true hit on many streetstyle blogs like Jak & Jil, Style.com, The Sartorialist and, from now on, Tean Peter Stigter too!

The how-to-wear part is actually quite easy. Mix your cropped top with long pants (Roberto Cavalli), shorts (D&G), pencil skirts (Prada) or maxi skirts (Emilio Pucci); everything is possible.

And though the bare belly isn’t quite the office look, there surely is no harm in showing of your abs at a fancy cocktail party. On the contrary! Finally you can show off that hidden six pack of yours. Or ehh.. at least you have a good reason to start working on that.

If you’re not so sure about this trend yet, just opt for last season’s cut-out trend, which is still very chic as well.

Taylor describes herself as a ‘clothing chameleon’ (there’s truly no better word for it), because her style is evolving all the time, which keeps her interesting for all the photographers. Effortlessly, she mixes very feminine pieces with more mannish elements.

Last year she has left her post at Marie Claire and became the brand new artistic director for the retail site Moda Operandi in New York, so luckily we keep seeing her around during the fashion weeks, because she’s a true pleasure to watch and get inspired by.  Just take a look at some of her most stunning outfits…

(Eva Dusch)

Or what about crisp white mixed with sporty elements? They always make a great combination. Alexander Wang, Vera Wang and Stella McCartney showed us once more how and why these two work very well together, using airy, casual fabrics and loose-fitting forms. Or like Sportmax, showing a drawstring waist.

Others used this particular essence of white just so to emphasize the feminine en softness of their collection, like Louis Vuitton, John Galliano, Chloé and Emilio Pucci, showing dresses with gentle lines in white lace, tulle and brocade.

Which style do you prefer?

(Eva Dusch)

For instance Blugirl, Erdem and Sportmax mixed diverse floral prints in the looks. Loewe, Burberry and Marni opted for prints that were a bit more graphical. Moschino mixed animal with floral, Prada combined polka dots with cars and Dries van Noten showed florals in the mix with some other nature-inspired prints.

It seems with this trend there are no boundaries or rules. Just pick your favorite prints and start mixing. And remember you don’t need all designer prints. Mixing your H&M printed pants with your Zara top can be just as charming, prints charming that is.

Not a very athletic person yourself? No worries! This sporty summer trend can be worn to any occasion, not just the gym. The sport -influences are everywhere; in the materials, the details and certain items.

When it comes to materials we see thick surfer’s fabrics like neoprene popping up, lots of jersey and mesh details (Alexander Wang). Elegant items are given sporty details too, like large pockets (Versus), hoodies (Rag & Bone, Kenzo) and eye-catching zippers (Blumarine). Then there are the classic sports items like the baseball jacket (Victoria Beckham) and cycling shorts making a huge comeback. And let’s not forget the Isabel Marant wedge sneaker hype that has been going on for the last couple of months.

When it comes to color black and white – the usual suspects – are a solid option, perhaps mixed with bright tones and touches of neon. Add your sexiest heels and some sparkling jewelry and you’re ready for a chic night out. There’s always tomorrow for the real working out…

Ever felt like skipping the fuss of getting dressed and just going out in your nightwear? Than we’ve got good news for you, ’cause hitting the streets in your finest PJ’s in the latest fashion trend. Brands like Stella McCartney and Jil Sander showed the coolest pajama’s by combining sloughy tops with lean trousers. Also, Jonathan Saunders and Antonio Marras joined in on the trend as they mixed loose fitting silky printed blouses and pants together.

Small polka dots, checks and paisley prints definitely are the way to go with this new summer look. Color-wise it seems best to opt for old-school pajama-worthy shades like gray, light blue and deep blue. Stella mixed hers with flat flip flops, yet as Jil Sander proved a chunky heel can be pretty chic with this look as well. Just don’t over-accessorize this nighttime ensemble. In fact, as shown on the runway this look doesn’t need any extras at all!

Let’s hope this ‘Bedtime Chic’ look stays around a little longer, ’cause looking on trend was never this easy.

After a few super feminine, glamorous collections designer Claes Iversen decided to opt for a slightly darker, tougher fall winter feeling. In de Oude Kerk in the city center of Amsterdam, yet another great and unique show area picked by the Danish designer, he presented his new range of clothes he has worked on for the last six months.

Inspired by a tea cup turned upside down Claes came up with beautifully shaped dresses and coats. They portrayed feminine silhouettes in contrast with lots of volume at the upper body.

More contrast came in the dynamic between masculinity and femininity, gorgeous highly embroidered, items versus minimalistic pieces and dark shades like burgundy, deep green and black combined with light, fresh tones like orange, white and mint.

Still the overall dark feeling came through in every single look, emphasized by the models’ dark lips, their hair in their faces and long, black leather gloves. It felt kind of Gothic (good match with the show location), yet Claes managed to still keep it beautiful.

He surprised us by presenting a white smoking as a wedding‘dress’ and a suit jacket as an evening gown. He woke us up by showing something different than just beautiful and feminine. Yet he stayed true to his detailed craftsmanship and his excellent taste. Hats off for Claes for taking a risk, but not taking it too far.

www.claesiversen.com

We have seen some supreme tailoring in Paris, resulting in sensual rounded shapes, exaggerated and challenging proportions and exciting fabrics. The world is clearly connected and the runways as well. Power looks, sculptured contours and very literary historical references were all over the place. Where we first spotted a hint of powder pink romance this was too scarce to be labelled a strong influence. The general feeling of tough powerplay and getting ready to withstand challenging times is ruling. Executed in a careful play with the existing parameters of couture, yet tailored with the contemporary flavor for bold statements. Think big.

It was not just the silhouette that takes on new dimensions this season; there is also the stage. Vuitton and Chanel confirm the feel for drama, stage setting and grand gestures. Catwalks became movie-sets, the models actors and the garments costumes. To quote one of the grand old NY ladies in the wonderful upcoming documentary: ‘Advanced Style’. ‘I dress up everyday for the theatre of my life’. That reflects clearly the attitude of women who opt for the most eccentric looks that where shown in Paris past week. These represent the icing on a cake that tasted very well, but were confirming the fact that the flavors of cakes today are not regionally bound any more. Globalization is a fact in fashion.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

FIERCE

Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent staged fierce and perseverance. Ferocious, brave and powerful women with a provocative attitude. Forceful shades as black and red gain power by leather sheen, high polish and slick coatings.

SCI FI

Balenciaga and Chanel teamed up showing challenging material with a science fiction character. Priestesses of techno cult in bonded materials, plastics, liquid films and technical coatings and foils.

SCULPTURE

Lanvin was the master of sculpture. An expression of exalted womanliness with a generous emphasis on the curve. Comme des Garçons took it to an extreme by showing models as paper cut dolls and labeling these as ‘the future in two dimensions’.  The exaggeration of shape, the bringing back contours to the explicit essence, seems key.

HISTORY

Louis Vuitton takes us back in the old days by showing series of costume outfits that stand out by their absolute supreme elaboration and embellishment. Making history relevant once more by showing truly innovative skills and craftsmanship in embellishment, scattering crystals generously.

ORIENT

Style.com claims that Haider Ackermann has the most sophisticated color sense of anyone in Paris and we just want to confirm this. He seems to reflect on the orient; the passionate shades of the east in subtle monochrome harmonies are stunning and truly inspiring. This combined with the intricate and elaborate patterns Dries van Noten showed are great inspirations for garments that will please the crowd.

It’s been a while since Miucca Prada wove a common thread between her two lines, Miu Miu and Prada. But pantsuits are the only thing exciting to her after so many years of skirts and dresses, she explained to the press. And her pantsuits are still not ordinary. The Miu Miu clothes looked mannish and leisurely in a retro way. Jackets and matching ankle-length pants had roomy cuts, and were worn with buttoned-up blouses, scarves and ruffled, wide ties, all done in clashing patterns and color combinations.

With his collection Urban Elegance designer Elie Saab brought Paris Fashion Week to a closure. Models sporting blunt bangs indeed looked more urban than we’re used to from the designer wearing asphalt shaded skirts and peplum tops. Fur coats were tossed over sexy dresses. High waisted black pants and sheer blouses formed the chicest combinations as tight dresses beautifully accentuated all that’s feminine. We could picture almost every outfit in a classy business meeting, a corporate presentation or a company’s cocktail. But of course it wasn’t all business and it wouldn’t be a complete Elie Saab collection without a stunning finale of floor sweeping Oscar-worthy gowns. They came in sparkling green, sequined silver and embellished gold. They had low V-necks and high slits, but stayed classy, A-list classy that is.

One more spot on power and hard-edge construction. Just to express the importance of this influence. Not to be pampered and cuddled in crisis. Women stand up and seem ready to fight. That is at least what designers suggest. Ready to march the battlefields. Dominatrix and fetishist and at the same time precious, upscale, ultra feminine and glamorous. From wasp-waisted x-shapes to rounded cape like sculptural silhouettes. Satin sheen, polished high gloss as well as slick. In leather, lacquer, chain mail and bonded satins. Metal, fur and rubber details. Creating looks with an almost sacral seriousness. Strict and severe and addressing the archetypal human need for religion as Gareth Pugh stated.

Monumental shaping is perfectly executed by Yves Saint Laurent, heavenly tailored by Viktor & Rolf, futuristic textured by Laurent, and it is hard to figure out if the look of Givenchy is monastic or vampire. It is an expression of utmost luxury.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

All aboard for the 10 o’clock LV train!

If you thought a Louis Vuitton show couldn’t get better after last seasons merry go round, you’re mistaken. This morning Marc Jacobs topped that performance off by sending out an enormous train on his Paris catwalk. By doing so he made sure – combined with yesterday’s Chanel crystals– Paris Fashion Week (and actually a whole fashion season) ended quite spectacular.

Jacobs even stepped away from his no celebs policy and invited stars like Catherine Deneuve and Sarah Jessica Parker to watch his show, held in a train station.

As the smoke of the train dissapeared elegant women accompanied by porters who carried their many bags stepped out of the Louis Vuitton train, which seemed to come straight from another era. They wore woolen a-line coats over skirts, over pants. The new type or layering already presented to us at Chanel yesterday. They looked extremely tall (thanks to a little help from Stephen Jones). The new silhouette made them look extra feminine. And shiny embroideries combined with kaleidoscopic applications turned otherwise simple outfits into jaw dropping pieces.

It was not the most modern collection, but it had the right kind of classic touch for todays Louis Vuitton women. And just in case after this show you haven’t had enough yet of the French fashion brand you can visit the exhibition Louis Vuitton – Marc Jacobs (opening tonight) and dig a little further into the Louis Vuitton history.

Futurism with softness, looking forward in a positive way. That was what designer Sarah Burton had in mind by creating her fall collection for Alexander McQueen. Burton presented it in a collection that was about lightness wit a core of power: futuristic princesses in “exploded” silhouettes in pristine white or enormous froths of pink feathers, their faces behind sleek visors. This was a story like only the McQueen house can tell and present, it left the commercial collection in the showroom. But that collection will for sure have connections with the show-pieces – same colors, same perfection and elegance.

Folk seemed to be the theme of the Valentino-collection, but we couldn’t tell that from the clothes. Or is must have been the dresses with native motifs that reminded of Greece, Russia or the Orient. But the black leather that opened the show, told a different story.  All in all it was a smooth, feminine collection with the familiar dresses and jumpsuits, softened with macramé seams and passementerie details.

The focus was at day-wear  with smart-looking frog-closure coats and Aran sweaters dotted here and there with crystals. For evening there were long, loose-fitting shorts in black leather with a tunic and an embroidered velvet vest—black tie, but with a modern touch.

Besides the impressive front row (which today featured stars like Katy Perry, Kanye West, Alicia Keys, Elisa Sednaoui and Poppy Delevingne) the second best thing about a Chanel fashion show is it’s backdrop. This morning enormous translucent amethyst crystals filled the Grand Palais show area. They formed the inspiration for modern 3D pieces, like coats and dresses with multifaceted bodices in multiple shades. And actually the crystals were visible in every little part of the show. From the models crystal heels, to their shiny velvet pants, up to their shimmering jackets, enormous brooches, luxurious necklaces and their crystallized brows. Besides his classical, usual suspects (tweed coats and twinsets) Karl Lagerfeld added some modern items, like cigarette pants, leggings and multicolored graphic knitted sweaters (we even spotted a knit hoodie!). They made the collection feel younger and fresher than before. The extremely talented designer even proved you can never be too young for Chanel by sending a little boy out on the runway sporting a quilted Chanel bag (yet another Chanel highlight).

It was the second time this season we had to say goodbye to a talented designer. More than a week after Raf Simons left in tears, it was now Stefano Pilati’s turn to present his last collection for Yves St. Laurent. After seven years he definitely left the fashion stage. A place some people think he should have left much earlier since his collections were not always well received. despite all the critic, it was thanks to Pilati that the house of YSL made profit after years in the red.

Pilati’s last collection was one of dark sensuality, something he presented before. The models looked perfectly glamorous and they were dressed in a style of aggressive femininity, thin black silhouettes, cinched waists and lots of leather. Jackets had strong shoulders, pants and skirts were lean and sleek. More intimidating were the dresses in colored mesh, like the harness of a knight.