Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

The circle is round. What started with the 50’s/60’s inspired show at Prada two weeks ago ended yesterday with a Louis Vuitton-collection in a production that breathed the Fifties-sixties in every outfit. The collection was inspired by And God created women, the movie that made Brigitte Bardot a big star, and the models looked sensual, feminine and curvy.

Marc Jacobs explained his take on the Fifties as an excuse to to pause and appreciate what a house like Vuitton is capable of creating. And that are bags actually, so there was a beautiful bag for every oufit Jacobs sent out – like fantastic redos of the Vuitton Speedy.

The silhouette was curvy with focus at the waist, full skirted dresses or full skirts mixed with tailored jackets- that’s probably why Jacobs hired Laetitia Casta, Bar Refaeli, Catherine McNeil, Karolina Kurkova, and finally Elle Macpherson, all women who were banned from the fashion-shows for a long time because of their beautiful, curvy body.  Jacobs made them look  fresh, feminine and ingenue, with hair scraped back into high, bouncy ponytails; clean makeup; and square-toed, block-heeled pumps trimmed with flat bows.

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

Chloe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

Well, camel is the new black for next fall. And clean, sporty minimalism is the trend.

The collection Chloe’s Hannah MacGibbon sent out yesterday had it all. Her collection mixed the all classic American sportswear with a Seventies touch. It looked sleek and sensual – especially the wide legged trousers with high waist – everything was cut loosely to the body, there were great, big coats, sweater-like cashmere T-shirts and elegant blouses with draped bow details.

The only that we missed was, ehm, color. Besides 80 % camel, brown and black were the only ‘colors’ in the collection. That made it look a bit dull and tame, while camel is a great color to mix with some vibrant orange, electric blue or mean green. We would have been happy with a pair of gloves, a belt, a necklace or even a lipstick showing the sunny side.

Yves St. Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

The Yves St. Laurent-show started promising with a variation on the Little Black Dress with cape and a black three piece suit. Such a clean and classic look would be just on trend, as more houses are aiming at the new sporty minimalism. And no other house has a history in tailored sportswear and classic Parisian sensibility as the house of Yves St. Laurent.

But somehow designer Stefano Pilati tried too hard to be classic and modern, it needs a creative talent to make conservative sporty chic look dynamic and not dated. The long skirts however looked dull, the white shirts were dowdy and the plastic capes and eveningwear sexless. It looked like the collection was made for a nun instead of a woman of the world. Also because of the caped black forms, the head-coverings, the white cotton and heavy chain pendants.

Stefano Pilati told reporters that the collection was all about protection and that is was partly an homage to YSL and the tailleur. Maybe he should take a look at the retrospective on YSL that soon will open in the Petit Palais in Paris – there’s still a lot to learn from the old master.

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

Riccardo Tisci proved it is possible to translate a ski & scuba-theme into a dark, mysterious collection. There were some tight, cheerful knits with a snowpattern and neoprene pants, but it never got too sporty. The slim pants and skirts, unzipped and unfurled at the waist, referenced scuba gear for some, Seventies ski outfits for others.

It was just another collection with Tisci’s signature tailoring:  sharp coats, tuxedo suits, and lean black pants. Red glitter gloves, bags and lips accompanied the clothes, as did sexy scarlet, black and nude lace. One of the best looks were the black leather pieces — mini slips and skirts — mixed with lace.

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

Suddenly clean, minimal fashion is a hit. It started with Jil Sander and Raf Simons, then Phoebe Philo at Celine and now Stella McCartney got caught by it too. Gone are her sexy, flirtatious clothes with a classic touch, her fall/wintershow opened with a sleek gray cashmere coat just above the knee, worn with bare legs and slingbacks. Second outfit was a camel/blue  tunic with oversized stripes worn with slacks.

Gray, black, blue and camel were the main colors of the collection, with orange and fuchsia as shocking contrast. Graphic illusions were created with floating sleeves and geometric wool appliques on organza dresses. Cosy and comfortable were oversized cardigans in fishermen’s rib and a wrap coat in structural wool. Great basics were the stretch stirrup trousers, their slim silhouette paired effortlessly with the knitwear and tunics.

The eveningwear looked more glamorous with the draped backs and flesh revealing slits. The dresses had long train extensions.

The show was dedicated to her family, kids and team, but also to Lee – Alexander- McQueen. ‘You’re missed’, Stella wrote in a personal note.

Streetfashion Paris FW2010 Day 5

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Givenchy-heels, your latest Celine-coat or that vintage Chanel? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris.

Sonia Rykiel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

Enough of the frizzy red wigs at Sonia Rykiel! This time the models had cute pony tails and large pom-pom headbands. The models were happy about it. At least, they all put on a smile at the catwalk.

Sonia Rykiel herself proved she’s not involved too much anymore by sitting front row, next to Beth Ditto. Her daughter Nathalie had to do it all on her own. And she did a very good job.

She let Dutch model Mirte Maas (we say: excellent choice!) open the show. Mirte wore an XXX-oversized woolen suit and was able to make it work. The cozy knitwear that followed, had soft colors like beige, off-white and different hues of light brown. (What a relief after all the bright Sonia Rykiel for H&M colors we had to look at for months.)

There were dresses with knitted sleeves and woolen cardigans, worn with big belts. A long bright red coat with a huge safety pin looked very comfy. We saw pant suits, fur coats and military jackets. On a lot of the pants a diagonal shoulder strap was attached. It didn’t really hold up the pants, it was just a nice detail. In some designs the shape of the breasts was accentuated by the fabric. Yet it made the models’ tiny breasts look even smaller, but maybe that was the intention.

Halfway the show a pair of cycling pants, left behind from the summer collection, was shown. It was worn over a pair of white tights. Soon after that some colors were introduced. Three outfits had collared stripes all over them and a few other designs came in kobalt blue matched with black. Luckily the collection then turned back to neutral shades. Skirts, dresses and jumpsuits came by in satin, chiffon and a transparent sort of knitwear.

So according to Sonia Rykiel the trends for next winter are: natural colors, oversized suits, suitpants, large woolen dresses or cardigans and ladylike details. We can hardly wait!

The finale was, as always with Sonie Rykiel, a big party. All models came up in light-shaded marabou coats and dresses. They were smiling, clapping and dancing and seemed to have the time of their lives. And Nathalie Rykiel…, she just partied along.

Backstage at John Galliano: his own boudoir

Céline Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

Phoebe Pilo’s debut springcollection at Céline was a huge success. Copies of her crisply chic safari jackets and dresses, the long white shirts and A-line skirts are dominating the stores of  cheap fashionlabels as we speak, but the house’s originals are also selling very well. Philo’s first collection was  a breath of fresh air at a time when fashion needed a respite from recession and the glamazon  look of black leather and big shoulders.

So expectations were high for her second collection. But as Philo said in her interview with T-magazine, she continued her work with great investment pieces in the best fabrics and in her signature clean, sophisticated cut. No frills, but deep blue coats instead, tailoring, short jackets, skinny pants, white (lace) shirts and leather pockets as a contrasting detail at A-line skirts. Ultra-chique and a winner were the white lammy capes. Simple, but feminine.

Next Page »